and fretting will cause an annoying popping sound when you make a slow tight
turn.
---- BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
=============
All of the cone surfaces should be lubricated, as well as the splines,
otherwise you will pretty quickly see fretting of the surfaces. This involves
transfer of metal from one surface to the other when two surfaces are highly
loaded (such as by the clamping force of the knockoff) and move relative to
each other. You will always have some small degree of movement. Fretting
reduces the fatigue resistance of the metal.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 6:54 PM
To: J. Armour; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Splines and Wheels
All good points and noted.
I am now of the opinion that when the spline play appears to be reduced by
tightening the knock on it is really just clamping it against the rear cone.
This surely must be a good thing eliminating the play and providing some
resistance before the splines come into play. So, notwithstanding what Dave
said about grease I will keep the rear cones dry. There should be no movement
so need for any lubrication. The splines only should be greased to to prevent
sticking. See link to MWS site on this topic.
Also to assist tightening the knock nut, on will grease the outside cone
lightly.
rg
http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentCategoryView.asp?category=214
From: J. Armour <mailto:sebring3000@bigpond.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 3:17 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Splines and Wheels
Blokes
I firmly believe that only the splines do the transmission of acceleration and
braking torque. The knock-off clamps the wheel in place and the two cones
within the wheel hub/splines centralises the wheel. I once had a knock-off come
off and the wheel still turned with the hub and slowed under braking.
Splines require the minimum of clearance to eliminate the fretting caused when
the wheel rocks back and forward on the hub. You can purchase an anti-fretting
grease.
I agree that it is almost impossible to eliminate clearance within the the
spline to spline fit otherwise we would not be able to remove them easily.
A loose knock-off allows the wheel to become off centre and then with each
rotation the wheel will 'walk' or rotate on a different centre to the hub/axle
centre. The splines with their clearance will not keep the wheel centralised
due to the built in clearance. This will create excessive wear on both sets of
splines.
I also agree that the Left and Right hand thread system is to counter-act
wheels coming loose but I find it hard to accept that this system will tighten
an already loose knock-off. It is also important to tighten wheels with NO
weight on them that is with the wheel raised off the ground. This allows the
wheel to easily centralise on the cones/tapers before final hammer tightening.
Remember if you do not have a flat spot on the top of the splines you have worn
or badly made splines. Also it is unwise to expect a long life from the splines
when new are fitted to old (worn)
The manufacturing process of the axle hub â?? machined, and the softer wheel
centre hub splines maybe made with a broaching process raises the question of
which component will be manufactured more accurately. Their fit and clearance
is critical to their life. Material hardness is also important and lubrication
adds value.
Over the years I have seen some radical home-made fixes for worn splines down
to no splines.
Your comments
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