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[Healeys] BN6 Overdrive

Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (michael.salter at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 14:03:14 +0000 (UTC)
References: <B3AAE6AF-5302-4A44-BFB1-9EDE5A94B072@gmail.com> <e9fb9dfb-72e9-0636-62cd-755231f83708@comcast.net> <DM3PR19MB056992512147329E4597D7EDA56F0@DM3PR19MB0569.namprd19.prod.outlook.com> <C63390C0-55C3-4289-9AFA-DA3AF926358F@gmail.com>

Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are 
able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not in 
need of checking. 

Michael S 

BN1 #174


Correct diagnosis is half of the repair.






On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" <nmcd10 at gmail.com> 
wrote:










By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me 
into new and uncharted territory!?
I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD 
actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and 
the need to ensure that they are in the right way.
More help on this please._____________________Neil McDonald
Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com

On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com> wrote:














If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could 
be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the 
housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a 
trick. I was advised to
 remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center 
of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through 
the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator 
body is the large sleeve
 in which the accumulator piston resides.







Bill Lawrence


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell 
<bspidell at comcast.net>

Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM

To: healeys at autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive
?



The OD and gearbox share fluid supply.? Take the car out for a run to


get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY 

on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the 

gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could 

be at least part of your problem.? There is a drain plug on the bottom 

left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD.? Older cars 

had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a 

big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a 

tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or 

other method.? When you drop the brass plug, there should be a 

cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets.



Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD 

plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place 

the screen on top of the magnets.? It's difficult to stop leakage from 

the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on 

the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD).? 

Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but 

most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the 

level often with the dipstick.? Should take about 3.75 quarts.



Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' 

but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay.



Bob





On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote:

> One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after 
> sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car 
> is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once 
> very briefly - which suggests
 that nothing mechanical is broken.

>

> So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is 
> adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have 
> also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the 
> actuating lever" method but not
 the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid 
is actuated?" method.

>

> Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve 
> area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there 
> an internet link elaborating on this?

>

> Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is 
> certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that 
> the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I 
> refill to just short of overflowing
 or ......?

>

> I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that 
> I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any 
> words of wisdom and/or comfort?

> _____________________

> Neil McDonald

>

> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com

>

>

>



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