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Mike,
=20
Yes, you do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the rubber seal =
that presses onto its inside edge is also in place. If you =
don=E2=80=99t have them (they deteriorate over time), they are available =
from the usual suppliers. You are right the drawings on assembly are =
ambiguous =E2=80=93 even in the parts book. I put mine on the way they =
came off, and it has been five years since I last did them. I recall it =
is relatively obvious but I always note the assembly when taking it =
apart. I don=E2=80=99t trust my memory to describe it =E2=80=93 I will =
leave that to others.
=20
Don=E2=80=99t be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really =
is not that hard at all and the factory workshop manual provides good =
guidance. Norm Nock also has a description in his book =E2=80=9CTech =
Talk=E2=80=9D, which is still available from British Car Specialists. =
It is important to have a selection of a few shims handy. When I last =
did mine, I followed the workshop procedure and when I got it almost =
perfect added/subtracted shims and spun the hub by hand, feeling for =
drag until I was satisfied that the bearings were running free, but that =
there was absolutely no end- play in them. Some people use a dial =
gauge to measure end-float, but I think it is unnecessary and have =
always (i.e., for over 40 years), done it by feel. Make sure when you =
are setting up the bearings that you have some good calipers (i.e., =
decent metal ones, not plastic), or use a micrometer, to check the shim =
thicknesses =E2=80=93 don=E2=80=99t rely on whatever the package says =
=E2=80=93 measure them! Do not grease the bearings when setting them =
up. I sprayed mine with some WD40 to provide some lubrication just =
while setting them up as you should not spin dry bearings, but a very =
light oil (3 in 1?) would probably be OK. When you are satisfied with =
the set up, then disassemble, noting the shims you used, wash out the =
light oil you used with a solvent, then pack the bearings, install the =
seal and put it all back together. Be sure to dry all the solvent out =
of the bearings, preferably using compressed air, but paper towel and =
perhaps a hair dryer would work, before packing with grease.=20
=20
Getting this right is really important as it substantially adds to the =
strength of the front axle assemble and minimizes cracking and failure =
of the stub axle.
=20
Put on some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.
=20
Cheers, Mirek
=20
=20
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
Michael MacLean
Sent: September-17-19 4:14 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes
=20
Can someone post a PDF of a service manual parts breakdown illustration =
of the front disc brakes of a 3000? I see the picture in the Moss =
catalog, but I do not see the way the backplate attaches to the =
assembly. Do I even need to attach the backplates? Right now I have a =
bare swivel axle and need the assembly order of the brakes and extended =
splined hub. As far as I can glean from all the info I have gathered so =
far, the caliper mounting plate should go on first, then the splined hub =
and disc assembly. (a major source of apprehension in itself) After =
that I can assemble the caliper and brake line connections. Did I miss =
something? That kind of glosses the assembly over. It's going to be =
more work than it sounds as I have never done anything other that drum =
brakes on the front of my Bugeye. The splined hub installation with the =
shims and lining up the split pin sound like barrels of fun. It's =
finally cool enough nights to go back out into my garage and bust some =
knuckles.
Mike MacLean
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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Mike,<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> =
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Yes, you =
do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the rubber seal that =
presses onto its inside edge is also in place.=C2=A0 If you =
don=E2=80=99t have them (they deteriorate over time), they are available =
from the usual suppliers.=C2=A0 You are right the drawings on assembly =
are ambiguous =E2=80=93 even in the parts book.=C2=A0 I put mine on the =
way they came off, and it has been five years since I last did =
them.=C2=A0 I recall it is relatively obvious but I always note the =
assembly when taking it apart.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I don=E2=80=99t trust my =
memory to describe it =E2=80=93 I will leave that to =
others.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> =
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Don=E2=80=99=
t be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really is not that =
hard at all and=C2=A0 the factory workshop manual provides good =
guidance.=C2=A0 Norm Nock also has a description in his book =
=E2=80=9CTech Talk=E2=80=9D, which is still available from British Car =
Specialists. =C2=A0=C2=A0It is important to have a selection of a few =
shims handy.=C2=A0 When I last did mine, I followed the workshop =
procedure and when I got it almost perfect added/subtracted shims and =
spun the hub by hand, feeling for drag until I was satisfied that the =
bearings were running free, but that there was absolutely no end- play =
in them.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Some people use a dial gauge to measure end-float, =
but I think it is unnecessary and have always (i.e., for over 40 years), =
done it by feel. =C2=A0=C2=A0Make sure when you are setting up the =
bearings that you have some good calipers (i.e., decent metal ones, not =
plastic), or use a micrometer, to check the shim thicknesses =E2=80=93 =
don=E2=80=99t rely on whatever the package says =E2=80=93 measure =
=C2=A0them!=C2=A0 Do not grease the bearings when setting them up.=C2=A0 =
I sprayed mine with some WD40 to provide some lubrication just while =
setting them up as you should not spin dry bearings, but a very light =
oil (3 in 1?) would probably be OK.=C2=A0 When you are satisfied with =
the set up, then disassemble, noting the shims you used, wash out the =
light oil you used with a solvent, then pack the bearings, install the =
seal and put it all back together. =C2=A0Be sure to dry <u>all </u>the =
solvent out of the bearings, preferably using compressed air, but paper =
towel and perhaps a hair dryer would work, =C2=A0before packing with =
grease. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> =
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Getting =
this right is really important as it substantially adds to the strength =
of the front axle assemble and minimizes cracking and failure of the =
stub axle.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> =
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Put on =
some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> =
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Cheers,=C2=A0=
Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> =
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> =
</o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys =
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael =
MacLean<br><b>Sent:</b> September-17-19 4:14 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] 3000 Front =
Brakes<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Can someone post a PDF of a service manual parts =
breakdown illustration of the front disc brakes of a 3000? I see =
the picture in the Moss catalog, but I do not see the way the backplate =
attaches to the assembly. Do I even need to attach the =
backplates? Right now I have a bare swivel axle and need the =
assembly order of the brakes and extended splined hub. As far as I =
can glean from all the info I have gathered so far, the caliper mounting =
plate should go on first, then the splined hub and disc assembly. (a =
major source of apprehension in itself) After that I can assemble =
the caliper and brake line connections. Did I miss =
something? That kind of glosses the assembly over. It's =
going to be more work than it sounds as I have never done anything other =
that drum brakes on the front of my Bugeye. The splined hub =
installation with the shims and lining up the split pin sound like =
barrels of fun. It's finally cool enough nights to go back out into my =
garage and bust some knuckles.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Mike =
MacLean<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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