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--00000000000009464805c91e76d9
Alan--
In my race engines I use (non-street) Royal Purple RPX 10/40, which has a
high content of zinc and other elements, and then toss in a small container
of ZDDPlus. I change oil and filter after each race weekend and have not
lost a cam or any valve train components since starting to follow this
regimen.
For my non-race 100 I usually use Castrol's "High Mileage" 10/40 and also
toss in a small bottle of ZDDPlus. Some people believe that cams and
lifters "absorb" zinc from the usual break-in oils which have high zinc
levels, making additives unnecessary. I err on the conservative side, and
except for the cost of a bottle of additive I see no disadvantage to this
practice, so as far as I am concerned it is "okay".
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sun, Aug 8, 2021 at 9:08 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
> So adding zddp on top of whatever is in there is okay? I have Castrol
> 20W-50 in my motor... also use the Valvoline too.
>
> On Sat, Aug 7, 2021 at 11:11 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> In about 2007 just before ZDDP content in motor oils became a commonly
>> talked-about issue in vintage racing communities, I bought a new race
>> engine for my MGA-powered Elva Courier from a reputable builder who
>> recommended I use Mobil 1. Somewhere during the first race weekend
>> performance fell off and upon disassembly it was determined that the cam
>> lobes had been damaged due to wear from the lifters.
>>
>> After replacing the cam and lifters I began using RP racing oil and
>> throwing in ZDDP additive for good measure. Though the Royal Purple
>> probably contained sufficient zddp on its own and some folks
>> cautioned against too high levels of zinc I have continued this
>> combination and have not lost a cam, etc. since.
>>
>> YMMV....
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 5, 2021 at 11:16 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The first sign of problems was having to adjust the tappets which had
>>> initially been silent after 2000 miles and then again at 4500.
>>> After adjusting they were still audible and had previously been silent.
>>> Then at the 2000 and 4000 mile oil changes there was "fir" in the drain
>>> plug magnet.
>>> I'm very disappointed to have destroyed a very low mileage "M" cam and a
>>> set of NOS lifters that I had been saving for decades.
>>> I'm seriously considering having silicon nitride lifters manufactured
>>> but at over $1000 a set its a serious investment.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Wed., Aug. 4, 2021, 10:47 a.m. Steven Kingsbury, <
>>> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just rebuilt my 100 engine and purchased my lifters from AH Spares in
>>>> the UK. These were their new design for better oil flow. I now have 1000
>>>> miles or so on the new engine and once I got my problems figured out with
>>>> my distributor, the car is running well and smooth.
>>>> Now I'm wondering when the other shoe is going to drop! What
>>>> problems did you have pointing you to the lifters as the source of those
>>>> problems? When I retorqued the head, I readjusted the rockers and found no
>>>> problems. They were a little off, but I expected a little.
>>>> What should I be looking for? I used Driven Break In oil and then I
>>>> switched to VR1 like you after 500 miles. I have been driving the car to
>>>> build up some trust in it and it's turning in to a joy to drive. I've got M
>>>> mods on this engine, cam, H6 carbs, M pistons and these new lifters. So
>>>> far, so good.
>>>> Thanks for your help,
>>>> Steven Kingsbury
>>>> BN1
>>>>
>>>> On August 3, 2021 at 5:19 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys <
>>>> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> After only 6000 miles the NOS BMC lifters that I installed in my engine
>>>> with a very low mileage "M" cam have started to deteriorate.
>>>> This engine has had a steady diet of VR1 non synthetic and it has had 4
>>>> changes in 6K miles.
>>>> Very disappointing.
>>>> I'm considering trying bucket type Buick lifters with longer push rods
>>>> and a new cam.
>>>> Does anyone have experience with the durability of the old Buick
>>>> lifters ... getting a little desperate here.
>>>> Fortunately I caught this issue before it ruined the engine.
>>>>
>>>> M
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>>
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>>>
>>
>> --
>> Best--Michael
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
--
Best--Michael
--00000000000009464805c91e76d9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Alan-=
-</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">In my race engines I use (n=
on-street) Royal Purple RPX 10/40, which has a high content of zinc and oth=
er elements, and then toss in a small container of ZDDPlus.=C2=A0 I change =
oil and filter after each race weekend and have not lost a cam or any valve=
train components since starting to follow this regimen.</div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"color:#3333ff">For my non-race 100 I usually use Castrol's=
"High Mileage" 10/40 and also toss in a small bottle of ZDDPlus.=
=C2=A0 Some people believe=C2=A0that cams and lifters "absorb" zi=
nc from the usual break-in oils which have high zinc levels, making additiv=
es unnecessary.=C2=A0 I err on the conservative side, and except for the co=
st of a bottle of additive I see no=C2=A0disadvantage=C2=A0to this practice=
, so as far as I am concerned it is "okay".=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div=
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Aug 8, 2021 at 9:08 PM Alan S=
eigrist <<a href=3D"mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";>healey.nut@gmail.com</a=
>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">So adding zddp on top of whatever is in there is okay?=C2=A0 =
I have Castrol 20W-50 in my motor... also use the Valvoline too.</div><br><=
div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Aug=
7, 2021 at 11:11 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healey=
s@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<b=
r></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">In about 2007 j=
ust before ZDDP content in motor oils became a commonly talked-about issue =
in vintage racing communities, I bought a new race engine for my MGA-powere=
d Elva Courier from a reputable builder who recommended=C2=A0I use Mobil 1.=
=C2=A0 Somewhere during the first race weekend performance fell off and upo=
n disassembly it was determined that the cam lobes had been damaged due to =
wear from the lifters.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"c=
olor:rgb(51,51,255)">After replacing the cam and lifters I began=C2=A0using=
RP racing oil and throwing in ZDDP additive for good measure.=C2=A0 Though=
the Royal Purple probably contained sufficient zddp on its own and some fo=
lks cautioned=C2=A0against too high levels of zinc I have=C2=A0 continued t=
his combination and have not lost a cam, etc. since.</div><div class=3D"gma=
il_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_de=
fault" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">YMMV....=C2=A0=C2=A0</div></div><br><=
div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug=
5, 2021 at 11:16 PM Michael Salter <<a href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gma=
il.com" target=3D"_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">The firs=
t sign of problems was having to adjust the tappets which had initially bee=
n silent after 2000 miles and then again at 4500.<div dir=3D"auto">After ad=
justing they were still audible and had previously been silent.</div><div d=
ir=3D"auto">Then at the 2000 and 4000 mile oil changes there was "fir&=
quot; in the drain plug magnet.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I'm very disappo=
inted to have destroyed a very low mileage "M" cam and a set of N=
OS lifters that I had been saving for decades.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I'=
;m seriously considering having silicon nitride lifters manufactured but at=
over $1000 a set its a serious investment.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed., Aug. 4, 2021, 10:47 a.m. Steven Kingsbu=
ry, <<a href=3D"mailto:airtightproductions@icloud.com"; target=3D"_blank"=
>airtightproductions@icloud.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div>I just rebuilt my 100 engine and=
purchased my lifters from AH Spares in the UK. These were their new design=
for better oil flow. I now have 1000 miles or so on the new engine and onc=
e I got my problems figured out with my distributor, the car is running wel=
l and smooth.</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Now I'm wondering when the ot=
her shoe is going to drop! What problems did you have pointing you to the l=
ifters as the source of those problems? When I retorqued the head, I readju=
sted the rockers and found no problems. They were a little off, but I expec=
ted a little.</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0What should I be looking for? I u=
sed Driven Break In oil and then I switched to VR1 like you after 500 miles=
. I have been driving the car to build up some trust in it and it's tur=
ning in to a joy to drive. I've got M mods on this engine, cam, H6 carb=
s, M pistons and these new lifters. So far, so good.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0Thanks for your help,</div><div>Steven Kingsbury</div><div>BN1<=
/div><div><br>On August 3, 2021 at 5:19 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys <=
<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_bla=
nk">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><div><blockquote typ=
e=3D"cite"><div><div dir=3D"auto">After only 6000 miles the NOS BMC lifters=
that I installed in my engine with a very low mileage "M" cam ha=
ve started to deteriorate.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">This engine has had a ste=
ady diet of VR1 non synthetic and it has had 4 changes in 6K miles.=C2=A0</=
div><div dir=3D"auto">Very disappointing.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">I=
9;m=C2=A0 considering trying bucket type Buick lifters with longer push rod=
s and a new cam.</div><div dir=3D"auto">Does anyone have experience with th=
e durability of the old Buick lifters ... getting a little desperate here.<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto">Fortunately I caught this issue before it ruined the=
engine.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><d=
iv><span>_______________________________________________<br>Support <a href=
=3D"http://Team.Net"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">Team.Net</a> <a h=
ref=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank=
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/a><br><br></span></div></div></blockquote></div></div></blockquote></div>
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</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr"=
class=3D"gmail_signature"><font color=3D"#3333ff">Best--Michael</font></di=
v>
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