In <199601111637.QAA05895@sauron.thlogic.com>, Jeremy DuBois wrote:
>> In <Pine.LNX.3.91.960111092327.17477Bfirstname.lastname@example.org>, John M.>Trindle
>> >I have had a second fuel pump go out in as many months on my '73 MGB.
>> >This is starting to look chronic! Any ideas? Thanks!
>> At the risk of appearing foolish, I'd suggest another SU pump. The
>> original lasted about 20 years, after all. The new pumps come
>> complete with suppression diode, which extends point life quite a bit.
>> Besides, Vicky Brit has them on sale now for about $80 or so. I have
>> only had trouble with bad rebuilds of same.
> Ack! Don't get another pump, get a rebuild kit. Why? Well,
> 3) The people building the new ones, or rebuilding the older ones, don't
> give a crap about your car, and aren't going to pay careful attention
> to getting the pump built correctly like you will.
Actually the QA at SU is now pretty good, and the point and
suppression technology is now way better than it was in the olden
days. It is a HUGE mistake to rebuild a pump without a
suppression diode. Point erosion is the primary cause of SU failure,
and the diode extends the life by a large factor.
> 4) You'll save oodles of money in the long run, especially once you know
> that the points and valves are the only things to really ever go, and
> combined they'll only cost you about $10.
Beg to differ, but there is this thing called a diaphragm that turns
into concrete after a few years. They run about $35-40. If you
replace diaphragm, points, diode and valves you can have an
essentially new pump but (a) you will have spent about $60 and (b) You
still have the valve seats to worry about. I also believe firmly in
supporting the companies that are producing new stock for iron that is
at least 25 years old...... YMMV, de gustibus, etc etc.