In <Pine.SOL.3.91.960112081127.23236R-100000@bugs>, Kevin Sullivan wrote:
> The manuals say
>you must remove the floorboards, toeboards, and transmission tunnel. I
True, but it helps.
> Start pulling the power unit (tm) and see
>that it needs to come forward very far so the the rear of the
>transmission will clear the crossmember (actually the "ears" for that
>BFBolt that goes through the bottom of the transmission).
I am sorry that I was out earlier and did not see your post asking for
help. I have recently pulled and replaced the power unit in a '58
MGA. Do you have a tranny that has a spline (as opposed to flange)
output? Mine was. There is NO way to pull and replace the power
unit without taking off the crank pulley and all kinds of other
stuff, like the oil filter. It hangs up on the cross member that
holds the hood latch. I seriously tried all kinds of manipulations
of angle and pitch and nothing worked without taking all of that stuff
off. Maybe there is a secret, but I have not found it.
>having thought about a couple days, I think it might be possible to lift
>the rear of the tranny and move it to the left so that it only has to go
>forward enough to clear the crossmember and not the additional two to
>three inches to clear the ears. I'll look into doing it that way when
I really don't think so, but would love to be corrected.
>To get the engine to come forward enough I had to remove
>the crankshaft pulley, timing chain cover, and ISYN, oil slinger. Had
>about 1/16 of an inch to spare. It may go back in with these in place if
>the shifted rear of tranny idea works.
Let me know if it works.
> One more thing -- if you forget do drain the
>tranny oil, don't worry. It'll all come out when you raise the thing to
>about a 45 degree angle. Won't happen again. :)
Yeah, found that out too. You must have a spline-end tranny.
Good luck! A. B. Bonds