|To:||Barrie Robinson <firstname.lastname@example.org>, Paul Hunt <email@example.com>, Howard Battan <firstname.lastname@example.org>, email@example.com|
|Subject:||Re: Crack of doom?|
|From:||Hans Duinhoven <firstname.lastname@example.org>|
|Date:||Sat, 02 Dec 2006 19:21:22 +0100|
|References:||<000601c7157a$c53cfb90$6600a8c0@XPS410> <016201c71624$0c5095b0$0200a8c0@Three> <E1GqYWn-00006A-BG@gatekeeper.look.ca>|
|Reply-to:||Hans Duinhoven <email@example.com>|
At least with mine, as the original door rubbers were gone shot when I
bought the GT in 1990.|
Original replacement rubbbers seemed NLA and imitations are way to thick.
Even doing my utmost by changing the anckle of the sheet metal where the rubbers are mounted onto, did not help much.
It already caused breaking of door handles twice.
Comes to another poor quality topic - not only door handles, but also window winders do crack so often.
I assume, this depends for a great part of the year of make.
71 B GT - ex-Calif.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Barrie Robinson" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: "Paul Hunt" <email@example.com>; "Howard Battan" <firstname.lastname@example.org>; <email@example.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: Crack of doom?
I think that this does not happen on GT models ?? At 10:03 AM 12/2/2006, Paul Hunt wrote:There was a BMC (Canada) service bulletin dated *1963* (Rich Chrysler posted me a copy) detailing a mod to cure it. Must have been really severe to have it happen so early. It was a great improvement, but still happened although after a much longer period. My 73 had it when I restored it, and I studied it quite carefully as I didn't want a reoccurrence. I reckoned there was still a weak point and welded in a flange. Some years later I saw a Heritage body with exactly that mod, although as part of the original panels. Whether this occurred before production of the MGB ended, or only with the Heritage shells, I don't know. There are a number of aspects to be considered when trying to prevent it happening again, but I believe the most important is to ensure there is some clearance between the screen uprights and the side of the 1/4-light frame to allow for some 'scuttle shake'. Without that clearance all the scuttle shake (the MGB is pretty good in this respect but there is some over some surfaces) is transferred into the door skin at the window opening.
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