Although not an oletruck nor a block, I did get both heads welded (between
intake and exhaust valves) on my 1968 Buick GS400 engine. I would think
that in order to get your block welded you will have to strip it down to
nothing on or in it, in other words bare, bare, bare. The reason for this
is they must heat the head (block) to 2000 degrees and then weld it while
it is this hot. They then put blankets on it to slow the cool rate. It is
my understanding that it must cool slowly, like over a period of 24 hours,
in order for the weld to hold. Since having this done, I have but a whole
season of driving, and not always easy, on the engine and still have not
problems with them. It cost me about $175 a head including valve job and
hardened seats. Good luck.
Jim V.
'58 GMC Suburban Carrier Pickup - V8 Automatic
At 02:33 PM 2/10/99 Wednesday -0500, jeastman@appliedtheory.com wrote:
>Has anybody had experience getting cracks in their block welded? I've got
>a crack in the water jacket (outside) of my block and would like to get it
>repaired. It's got some form of putty on it that worked pretty well until
>I put a thermostat in (a winter necessity up here in NY). I haven't had
>much luck with K&W block seal on other blocks, and would rather get it
>sealed once and done right.
>
>Trivia Question: When my headlights are on, my parking lights aren't,
>though my parking lights work fine w/ the parking lights only turned on.
>Is this the way it came out of the factory, or are they suffering from the
>same electrical wizardry that caused the previous owner to use the horn
>relay as a ignition bus/voltage regulator?
>
><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<0>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>Jeremy Eastman V 315.453.2912 x354
>Software Engineering Group jeastman@appliedtheory.com
>AppliedTheory Communications http://www.appliedtheory.com
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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