Oletruck list members.
Thanks for the replies about my shims questions. I guess the general consensus
is that shims are required before '56 to adjust the main bearing caps. My '56
does not require the shims, so I should be ok. One more question and I will be
done. Does anyone have a '56 service manual? Can you check what is the original
standard Bore size for a '56 235 engine?. I need to order new pistons and rings
(blocked bored to 0.030) and need to know the standard bore size to be able to
order the new pistons for the new overbore.
Thanks,
Antonio
'53 3100
MIKE RAHL wrote:
> The 55 235 I just recently dissassembled had shims under the main bearing
> caps. According to the shop manual they were used for bearing adjustment.
> My crank was ground 10/10 and I don't plan on using any shims on reassembly.
> The 56 shop manual supplement states that the bearing shims were eliminated
> for that year.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Allen L. Jones [mailto:ALJ@hartcrowser.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 9:04 AM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Engine questions
>
> However, there are shims installed at the factory under the main bearing
> caps in a lot of 235s and 261s. Ever notice those really, really thin
> sheets of metal under the mains? Typically under the rear bearing cap?
> It's critical to keep track of these guys during disassembly and put them
> back in the exact same spot. If you lost or forgot where they go, wouldn't
> line boring the block take care of things? If you talk to some Inliners,
> they always line bore their block anyway. I suggest you talk to a machinist
> that is more familiar with your situation. Good luck!
>
> Allen in Seattle
> '50 3100
> Inliner #2235
>
> >>> "jack halton" <safesix@worldnet.att.net> 08/18/99 04:32AM >>>
> Either this guy is confused, or you have an older motor. The older babbitt
> rod motors used shims on the rod bearing caps, but later 235s use insert
> bearings - no shims required.
>
> Most "production" machine shops don't want to work on older engines, as it
> takes more time away from their more profitable operations. It's usually
> better to contract with them for just the major machining operations and do
> the assembly yourself. Or else find a shop that specializes in older stuff -
> but be prepared to pay more.
>
> Jack / Winter Park FL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Antonio R. Tijerino <antonio@innercite.com>
> To: Ole Trucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 1:26 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Engine questions
>
> > I have a question for the engine rebuilding experts. I am getting a '56
> > 235 cid engine that has been recently bored 0.30 and the crank has been
> > ground 0.10/0.10. New cam bearings installed. I have read the 6 part
> > engine rebuilding article posted on the oletrucks list and does not
> > mention anything about the main crank bearings "shims". I took the block
> > to the machine shop and the machine shop guy told me that installing the
> > "shims" was a job on itself and that it make the price of putting the
> > engine together more expensive. Can anyone tell me more about these
> > shims, how to install them and what is the story? is this guy trying to
> > pull my leg? can I install the shims myself?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Antonio,
> > '53 3100
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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