In my 50 ½ ton with a late 50's 235 and a good rad (the PO, said it was recently
recored), it doesn't overheat and I am running no fan at all! Only, because I
don't have one. It runs about 190º with a 190º or 195º thermostat. When I drive
it at about 20 or 25 mph for a half hour or more, it does warm up some, but
still far from overheating. I would think it would if I left it idling. Check
the radiator core with one of those pistol style IR thermometers and shoot it
all around to see if there are any hot spots. The Snap On guy would be glad to
demonstrate it to you. Watch out though, that's a cool little tool. You might
end up buying one. A friend of mine has one and he shot it on a rad that looked
good, no mineral deposits or other crud or sealers were visible from looking in
the filler neck. The outside of it looked almost like new and the IR thermometer
showed just how badly that core needed attention. Three was a pretty big temp
difference between some of the rows. I don't remember what the difference was.
Jack Halton wrote:
> It's normal for temperature to jump up when you slow down. Less air is
> coming through the radiator. But it indicates that you can make some
> First (and easiest) thing I would try is replacing the fan with a
> 6-blade flex-a-lite aftermarket fan. This will do two things: increase
> airflow to better cool the engine, and avoid the potential grief of losing a
> fan blade due to metal fatigue in the original fan blades. Use one of the
> rigid fans, not the razor-sharp stainless blade models. Try to get the
> deepest pitch you can find, even if it means using a fan with less diameter
> than the original model. But deeper pitch means more chance for interference
> with pulleys, so you may have to try a few different models.
> My manuals don't show any provision for a transmission cooler on the
> Hydramatic, but that doesn't necessarily mean it can't or hasn't been done.
> Radiator technology has improved a lot since 1955 but if your original
> radiator is in good shape, it should be adequate.
> I just checked CNN, they say temp in Boise was 102 yesterday! You
> probably won't have the same problem in a couple of months.
> Jack Halton
> 51 GMC 1/2 ton
> Winter Park FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin Acker" <email@example.com>
> To: <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 8:30 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Heat Questions-1955 GMC
> > Hello folks, this is my first real post to the group.
> > I have a stock 1955 GMC suburban pickup(cameo) with the original big 6
> > cylinder, 4 speed hyrdomatic and original rear end. I took the truck on
> > it's longest trip this weekend(45 miles one way). During the trip my gas
> > pedal foot was getting very hot, almost uncomfortable. The temp gauge
> > was at 190 most of the way. I was driving at 55 mph all the way. The
> > rear end gearing kind of mandates that. When I pulled off the freeway
> > the temp jumped up to 200. After getting home and parking it she pegged
> > at 220. I normally don't intend to take long trips with the truck, just
> > short 20-45 miles trips. I have been thinking about putting down some
> > padding with foil on each side toward the firewall ahd tranny area.
> > Should I worry about the temp on the tranny? Should I or can I run a
> > tranny cooler? Has any one placed a fan shroud on their 55?
> > Should I consider a aftermarket electric fan to run after the truck is
> > shut off to keep the temp down? Should I consider replacing the
> > radiator(in good working condition)?
> > Thanks,
> > Kevin Acker
> > Boise, Idaho
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959