Mark
I used a chunk of brass as a backing plate to weld up the holes in my frame.
clamp it in place, it acts as a heat sink and the weld won't stick to it. if
you need both sides to look good you will have to weld both sides. the side
against the brass (or copper) will not be a finished surface. it will be
flat, if you are using a spray on bed liner, do all of your wlding on the
outside.
for those of you that are looking for a welder, Home Depot & Lowes sell a
115 volt, Lincoln mig welder (wire feed) that I have used to weld in patch
panels and just finished welding in a Fatman Must II crossmember. Sheet
metal is a one pass weld, while the 1/4" crossmember took 5 passes and a lot
of grinding. I use the flux core wire, it's not as preety as the gas sheild,
but I never have to worry about running out of gas. I paid $315 for the
whole thing.
Yes, I used to be a welder. Pipe welder & maintenance during the 80s.
Kurt
58 3100
>From: "Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>
>Reply-To: "Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>
>To: "Oletrucks Mailing List" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [oletrucks] Hole repair in stepside bedsides
>Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 16:45:17 -0700
>
>My bedsides have multiple holes drilled in them, for tiedown hooks.
>Since both sides of the metal are visible, what's the procedure for
>filling these holes. I talked to a couple of welders, they think that
>the heat from welding will distort the metal too much. Is there a
>non-welding method? I'm planning on doing the inside of the bedsides
>with Herculiner, if that helps. What method of welding would work? I
>see guys in the magazines welding holes like this, and they don't seem
>to be having any trouble. Am I talking to the wrong welders?
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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