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Fw: [oletrucks] Cutting metal

To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Fw: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
From: "DON" <ppm@accesscomm.ca>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 18:21:10 -0600
From: "DON" <ppm@accesscomm.ca

> Bill,
> Try a "MAKITA" blade if it will fit your saw, I have found that genuine
> Makita blades out perform anything else I have tried and I have tried a
> Regards,
> Don, Sask. Canada.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "William Schickling" <wschick1@twcny.rr.com>
> To: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 12:45 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
> > Group,
> >
> > First I want to thank everyone on the responses to my first inquiry
> > breaking welds. I am making head way with removing the old hitch. The
> advice
> > to stay away from tearing through the frame when ripping the old welds
> > was very good. I thought I had most of a weld cut through so I whacked
> > with a hammer and it broke off put took a little of the base frame metal
> > with it. I imagine if it were bigger it might have ripped a hole in the
> > frame. Getting tough with a big hammer would only gets me repair bills.
> >
> > Since I haven't located a welder that is willing to come to my house, I
> > using a combination of angle grinder and a air cut off tool. However you
> get
> > stuck where these tools won't reach. I grabbed my trusty reciprocating
> > to try to saw through the welds. These welds are eating metal blades
> > crazy. If I put any kind of pressure on the saw the teeth disappear so
> fast
> > it makes your head spin. I bought what I thought was the best blade my
> > hardware store had. There must be something better. Is there a metal,
> > bi-metal blade or something made for cutting thicker metals? There are
> some
> > bigger hardware/home repair stores near work, so I could look tomorrow.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill Schickling
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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