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Re: Pouring a floor

To: "Madurski, Ronald M" <ronald.m.madurski@lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Pouring a floor
From: Martin Scarr <martins@efn.org>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 14:58:30 -0700 (PDT)
On Wed, 30 Jul 2003, Madurski, Ronald M wrote:

> The original plan was for a 16" wide footer, 10" thick, with a few
> courses of 8" block and then the floor poured on that.  
> 
> What I am thinking about doing now is form the footer, the short wall,
> and the floor all at one time and just do one pour.  Are there any
> problems with doing it this way?  (Other than the fact that it is a LOT
> of concrete to pour at one time.)

That's a perfectly acceptable way to do it, but it can be tricky.  You can
run into a problem with holding up the wall forms, especially on a 16 inch
wide footing.  There are some steel straps made for that purpose, or
sometimes contractors here use pieces of 1x lumber across the top of the
footing forms to hold up the wall forms.  You also need to be sure to
sufficiently brace the wall forms so they don't move around during the
pour; since the bottom of the wall forms rest on the footing forms you
need a lot of bracing.  
> My second alternative is to do the footer putting in a keyway.  Pour the
> walls (8" thick) with another keyway, and then pour the floor.
> Logistically this is a bit more difficult but the advantage that I see
> is if a problem occurs less of the pour is affected.

In my area you are required to have pieces of vertical bar for stem walls,
so we don't use keyways.  If you don't need vertical bar, you can use 12"
pieces of rebar placed vertically in the wet footing in lieu of a keyway.  
Place them every 4 feet (or whatever your inspector wants) in the center
of the stem wall.

> Another thing I was contemplating is welding the rebar together instead
> of just tying it together.  Other than the time it would take to do it
> are there any downsides to doing this?

Don't do it, your inspector probably won't like it and code may even
prohibit it (been awhile since I looked at a code book).  Just lap the
rebar and tie it with wire (lap needs to be 40x the diameter of the bar,
1/2 inch bar needs 20 inch lap).

regards
Martin Scarr

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