shop-talk
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Pouring a floor

To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pouring a floor
From: Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 23:14:23 -0400
Do the calcs twice so you order the correct amount and do one pour.  Just 
make sure your forms are STRONG enough - that's a lot of weight.

For the floor, use mesh instead of rebar and use wire and wrap the mesh 
together.  Overlap a square on each side and wrap every 2nd or 3rd 
square.  I tend to wrap the corners diagonally but it's just my 
preference.  It doesn't matter really - as long as it's TIGHT.

Make sure that when you pour, the mesh is lifted so it's IN the 
concrete.  Forms will come off easier if you "paint" them with kerosene or 
diesel first.  DON'T skimp on the gravel layer and if you ever plan on 
doing a floor coating (which you should), double plastic wrap layer on top 
of the gravel is a good idea.  Plastic wrap on the outside wall of the 
foundation, covered by 2" styrofoam will do wonders with temperature control.

My garage is 32x65 and we did the pour in 3 sections but that was because 
it was just me and my father-in-law.  A front-loader truck and a driver who 
can work it will make the job MUCH easier - the alternative is 
"wheelbarrows from hell" (hint:  find a couple friends and pay them $100 to 
run the barrows).

At 07/30/2003 at 09:54, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Madurski, Ronald 
M's keyboard and said:

>I'm getting ready to pour a floor for a steel building.  40x50x12.
>Frostline is 32".  I had a contractor lined up to do the whole thing and
>he has flaked out on me so I am thinking about doing a lot of it by
>myself with help from some friends.
>
>The original plan was for a 16" wide footer, 10" thick, with a few
>courses of 8" block and then the floor poured on that.
>
>What I am thinking about doing now is form the footer, the short wall,
>and the floor all at one time and just do one pour.  Are there any
>problems with doing it this way?  (Other than the fact that it is a LOT
>of concrete to pour at one time.)
>
>My second alternative is to do the footer putting in a keyway.  Pour the
>walls (8" thick) with another keyway, and then pour the floor.
>Logistically this is a bit more difficult but the advantage that I see
>is if a problem occurs less of the pour is affected.
>
>I have a floor mason that will do the pour for me but he doesn't lay
>block or pour footers.
>
>Another thing I was contemplating is welding the rebar together instead
>of just tying it together.  Other than the time it would take to do it
>are there any downsides to doing this?


Cheers!

///  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net  or try
///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/shop-talk


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>