I to tried the "Tapping" method on my Spit. Well, you could say I tapped
them to death. No way they were coming out without some vise work. When I
did my 67 last month I did some research and found a driveline shop here
locally that had the proper size in stock. When I asked him how much he
said "$7.75", When I asked how much to install them he said "If you buy from
me, I install for FREE".
Made the job allot easier and I will go to him from now on.
Happy Holidays
Nick
Abilene, TX
'67 Spitfire MK III
'74 Spitfire 1500
Visit Nicks page of Homebrew and Triumphs
http://camalott.com/~spitdrvr
-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Smith <spitty@vt.edu>
To: Spitfires <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: u-joint
>I have seen the tapping technique work on American made cars' u-joints but
>when I pulled the half-shafts in the spitfire no amount of tapping,
beating,
>or swearing would make the joint come out. I eventually ended up using an
>old socket and the bench vice to press the cups out.
>
>Going back to Fred's original question you do do need to pull the half
>shaft. Its not very hard and the most annoying thing is probably having to
>rebleed your brakes.
>
>Ryan W. Smith
>Mechanical Engineering
>VPI&SU
>email: Shmitty@vt.edu
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>
>To: fred thomas <vafred@erols.com>; <spitfires@Autox.Team.Net>
>Sent: Sunday, December 20, 1998 11:12 AM
>Subject: Re: u-joint
>
>
>>At 10:05 AM 12/20/98 -0800, fred thomas wrote:
>>>Listers, 1978 spit 1500, is there a easy way to replace the rear axle
>>>u-joints without having to remove the rear hub, vertical links, and brake
>>>drums, yes you guessed it, some bearings are now showing on drivers side
>>>only and she is a little louder than the radio at 3/4 volume, any
>>>suggestions or is the manual correct again. TIA "FT"
>>>
>>>
>>Fred,
>>
>>
>>Manual is correct. You can't get 'em out without removing the axle &
>>holding the assembly firmly. You risk damaging the hub bearings if you try
>>in the car.
>>
>>No need to remove the drum though...that could stay on the axle once it
is
>>removed from the vertical link.
>>
>>But, try this method of u-joint removal I just got from the Lotus Cars
>>List. Let us know if it works! (Key to this method is cleaning those
>>inner bores well.)
>>
>>
>>Atwell Haines
>>(resisting the urge to say, "get a louder, more powerful radio")
>>
>>++++++++++++++++++++++
>>
>>Courtesy Clive Roberts, ex-TR7 engineer in the late 70s:
>>
>>
>>
>><< ) How does one remove u-joints? >>
>>
>>I was taught by one of those wonder-mechanics you met once in a decade,
>>never
>>to apply any force to the bearing cups in a U-joint. His method was to
>>remove
>>the circlip, then carefully scrape all corrosion and junk out of the bore
>>of
>>the housing, to give the cups a clean path to move along. Then, holding
>>the
>>cross in one hand, tap the housing adjacent to the bearing cup where you
>>just
>>removed the circlip with a hammer. (Note: the operative word was _tap_ -
>>not
>>welt, welly, or beat the **** out of. The fact that you're holding the
>>thing
>>tends to be a good force-limiting device). His promise was that the
>>inertia
>>would gently move the cup out of the housing. You let that cup move
>>almost,
>>but not completely, out of the housing, then turn the assembly over and
>>so the
>>same on the opposite side.
>>As one who had grown used to using arbor presses, clamps and sundry
>>brutality
>>to U-joints, accepting that some damage would be done along the way, I
>>was
>>sceptical that this _low-impact_ method would work - but it did then,
>>and has
>>since, every time I've needed to pull a joint apart. There may be times
>>it
>>won't, but I think it's definitely a technique worth learning, as it's
>>low
>>stress both on parts and operator. And you never know when it may be
>>useful to
>>be able to fix a U-joint beside the road, with only the tools you're
>>carrying....
>>
>>Clive
>>
>>++++++++++++
>>
>>
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