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Re: Spit MKIII Brake Lights problem (longish)

To: "Stephane St-Amant" <steph71tr6@crosswinds.net>, spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Spit MKIII Brake Lights problem (longish)
From: Douglas Braun & Nadia Papakonstantinou <dougnad@bellatlantic.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 10:43:13 -0400
Those little 4-way bullet connector blocks often
fail.  The metal contacts inside them start cracking and falling apart.
Order about ten of them (they are cheap), and check and possibly
replace every one you can reach.  There are at least three of them
in the trunk, and three more for the headlights and front parking lights
in the very front of the bonnet.

If you look at a good wiring diagram (one that shows every connector),
you will see that the current that goes to a taillight has to pass
through about 10 connections.  If only one of these is flaky, the
light won't work.

Also, if a connection has high resistance, a meter (which draws virtually no
current) will show 12 volts, but when you put the bulb back in the circuit,
its load will pull the voltage down to almost 0 volts.

Also also, does your meter measure low resistances, like 1 to 1000 ohms?
A simple meter that only measures kilo-ohms can't really tell
you if an automotive circuit has excessive resistance.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


At 09:57 AM 8/1/00 -0400, you wrote:

>Hello everyone,
>
>Now that I'm back from our honeymoon, I have finally some time to work on
>the Spit.
>
>Sunday, I decided to tackle the electrical system.  More precisely, the
>lights all around the car.
>- Headlight?  Check
>- High Beams? Check
>- Rear Parking Lights?  Check
>- Blinkers?  Nope, Flasher unit need to be replaced
>- Backup lights? Nope, both bulbs are blown, will replace
>
>Now, here's where I'm stumped (I check the archives but coudn't find
>anything similar)
>- Brake Light? Nope
>- Check the light bulds - Look OK
>- Clean the connections
>- Test - Works... Try again, don't work...Hummm
>- Get my trusty voltmeter (about 20 years old - never failed me.
>- Check the current at the socket - Pedal released: 0 volt, Pedal Pressed:
>12 volt - Good
>- Put the light back in and test: Not working
>- Check for continuity  in the bulb (with the voltmeter/tester): OK   Double
>Hummmmm
>- Put the bulb in 180 degree turn and turn the parking lights on: the brake
>filament is on (Now I really know that the bulb is fine.
>- Put the bulb in the right way again: Parking light work, brakes light
>don't!!!  DARN
>- Test the connection with the voltmeter WITH the light bulb in the socket
>and press the brake pedal: NOTHING!  That's weird!
>
>(Let's double check this one!!!)
>- Pull the bulb out, press the brake pedal, check voltage: 12 volts
>- Put the bulb back in, press the brake pedal, check voltage: 0 volts
>
>Any idea???
>
>TIA
>Steph
>'69 Spit - Hers (With brake lights from the Outer Limits!!!)
>'71 TR6 - Mine (Awaiting patiently in pieces!)
>
>


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