Just did this myself. If you're reusing the old studs and nuts, it is
possible that
the old nut is only going on part way due to rust or damaged threads on the
stud.
>From then on in, you're tightening the stud in instead of turning the nut.
Eventually
the stud bottoms out and feels completely tightened while still somewhat
loose. You
can feel it becoming tight suddenly as it bottoms rather than more gradually
as it should.
The easy solution is adding some washers between the nut and the clamp.
Did you try spraying carb cleaner around to find the leak? I just tracked
down a very
elusive vacuum leak this way and am feeling rather proud of myself. It
turned out
to be the tube from the EGR valve to the intake manifold. I didn't realize
that there
was a steel tube under all that braiding - a steel tube perforated by rust
holes in my
case.
Greg Rowe
>From: "Nolan Penney" <npenney@mde.state.md.us>
>Reply-To: "Nolan Penney" <npenney@mde.state.md.us>
>To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: New Weber install problems
>Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 13:56:32 -0400
>
>Sounds like a severe vacuum leak to me. Probably some interference
>between the intake and exhaust manifolds that prevent the intake flange
>from setting flush with the side of the head. Been there, done that.
>Having the nuts tight just means they are tight, it doesn't mean the
>manifold is uniformly seated against the head.
>
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