At 11:28 PM 6/14/2005 -0500, Larry Vaughan wrote:
>Is blue loctite correct for the allen head screws connecting the stub
axles to
>the differential? The diff off my '77 had two of the allen head screws backed
>out and chopped off.
Larry,
Yes, blue will work!
>Is self etching primer the type to use when sanding down to bare metal, but
>not done with the sanding and filling?
Yes, you use that when you go to bare metal, or you can use something like
DuPont 5017 metal conditioner or Oshpo. All have phosphoric acid in them.
If you use 5017, to etch the metal then you can use almost any primer.
>I have a quart of high density sandable primer, but I think that is for
>filling in scratch marks before final color.
Again, that is correct. They can also be used as a real primer. However,
they (the high build primers) are designed to fill heavy sand scratches like
in the bondo, or dynaglass.
>I bought some gray primer with some sealer hardener I had to add. The
>salesman said I had to top coat in 30 minutes or sand ever square inch
>of the primer if I waited to long. That was ok for the frame but I think I
>will be working on the body sporadically.
Then don't worry. Use this primer to cover the metal. Then when you are
done the body work, and have finished spraying everything with the primer,
go back over it with some 400 grit paper to smooth everything out.
Once you have the metal covered with the primer, and "block" sanded, then
you'll be ready to shoot the top coat.
One thing about primers. Most will absorb moisture. I'm not too sure if
the newer 2 part (called 2K - the have the hardening agent that you have to
mix with the primer) absorb water or not. You'd think not. But you don't
want to leave the body out in the elements.
When I repainted my van, I told the paint store that I'd be doing it in
sections. Then when all primed I'd shoot the primer. But I was doing it
in my front yard, and it would be exposed to the elements. He gave me
a self etching primer and said it would work.
Like crap, it did. By the time I got the roof and hood done, the roof was
rusting. So I got to do it all over again! Lucky me!! :)
There is an epoxy primer that is supposed to be very good and not absorb
water. So the metal won't rust under it. You may want to use that, then
go with the primer you have after everything is primed all the body work
done.
You may want to check out some of the articles & forms on painting I have
listed on my Morgan web site: www.team.net/www/morgan/tech
Hope this helps.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1)
Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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