Hi Daryl ,
I too had the same problem with my Bugeye steering wheel nut . I showed
a machinist friend the new "NUT"
from England . (I lost the old one) He did not have the
correct size die , however he did determine that there are 24 threads
per inch (9/16-24 TPI I believe) He loaned me a 24TPI thread file . I
filed all around the diameter until the nut would just start on the
threads .
I kept filing around and around until I got to the point were the nut
will now spin on easily by hand . I was worried at first because the
threads looked ok , but the nut would not fit . After using the thread
file, life at the
steering wheel to steering column interface is good .
Good Luck ,
Mark Hanna
AN5L/13731
P.S. I'm still looking for an old "junk" aftermarket wheel
to use during the bodywork phase of the restoration
of my Bugeye . TIA , MH
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daryl May [SMTP:mayfam@sprynet.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 6:54 PM
> To: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Steering Wheel Nut
>
> I acquired my Bugeye in pieces with the steering wheel nut off. Now I
> am
> having trouble getting the steering wheel nut to "take" on the
> steering
> column thread. Have tried 2 different nuts with the same result. The
> nuts
> look good.
>
> The steering column thread also looks good, and I have filed the end
> to try
> to provide the best possible starting grip. The thread does, however,
> look
> as if it MAY be compressed as if someone had beaten the end of the
> column
> with a hammer to try to free up the steering wheel. What's wrong with
> this
> theory is that the compression is not on the last thread or two, but
> all
> along the length.
>
> Anyone got any idea how to handle this? If I need to shoot a die down
> the
> steering column thread, what thread is involved and are such dies
> easily
> available? Really I'd prefer a simpler solution, and I absolutely
> don't
> want to remove the column, put it on a lathe to remove the existing
> thread
> and die a new (smaller) thread on.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Daryl
>
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