I used the rod and scale type until I had to re-do a set of head gaskets
for a customer for free when I was turning wrenches for a living. Turns
out the scale was 20 ft/lbs off. Threw it right in the trash where it
belonged and bought a good Snap-on torque wrench ($$$$$$$). Several years
later and many years ago my son (age 5) took it out of my toolbox and
practiced hammering nails into a board with it......but that's another
story......
I have always tightenend and continue to tighten main caps, rod caps,
cylinder head bolts, and intake manifolds on all engines with a torque
wrench - These are critical. I have to admit I haven't used a torque
wrench much on the rest but I like to think I have a well-above-average
feel. More recently, I bought a 3/8 drive 10-75 ft/lb torque wrench for
working on the Sprite and used it for every bolt on the engine. If you
have any doubts about how tight, use an accurate torque wrench.
Les
At 09:57 PM 6/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>A quick couple of questions about torque wrenches.
>
>A necessity? Specifically, I'm doing front end suspension, rotors, wheel
>bearings and I am seeing torque settings. How bad is it if I just "tighten
>'em up good"? :)
>
>Assuming I should just get the torque wrench - is the micrometer type the
>only way to fly or are those with the rod/scale ok as well. They seem to
>be much cheaper, but they seem a little flimsy. Anyone have any personal
>experience with them?
>
>Thanks mucho.
>
>Philip
>Burgundy 1974 Midget
>
>
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