Another advantage to the click type is when you've got a really high-torque
nut to tighten. (Not so much an issue on our cars, but the old VW Beetles
with 275 - 300 ft/lb rear brake drums and flywheel nuts.)
Trying to tighten one of those with a "beam and scale" wrench is an
excercise in precise guessing, because it's pretty tough to apply enough
force, smoothly (so the needle isn't wiggling like mad), while keeping your
head in line with the scale. At least it was when I was a 155lb 19 yr old.
The "click" type you set carefully, then HAUL on until you hear the
"CLICK".
Chris Kotting
ckotting@iwaynet.net
On Wednesday, June 17, 1998 12:30 AM, Andy Poling
[SMTP:andy@globalauctions.com] wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Jun 1998, Mike Gigante wrote:
> > The only caveat is that the click style (which I have), while
convenient and
> > a must have for the tool kind of guy, does suffer from one
inconvenience:
> >
> > It must be recalibrated every now and then to rmain accurate. the rod
and
> > scale type never has to be re-calibrated...
>
> One thing I read recently is that you should dial it down to zero when
> storing it. I guess that would help delay the need for recalibration.
>
> What I see as the primary advantage to the click type is that you can use
it
> reliably in failing (or no) light, or when your face just isn't in the
right
> place to squint at the little pointer dead on...
>
> -Andy
>
> 72 Pantera - Rocky 91 Miata - Steve (bionic) 96 A4Q -
Rudolf
> 80 928 - Phantom 97 Miata - Nadia 84 RZ350 -
Sting
>
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