Nory and Steve, et. al.
Again, without benefit of a wiring diagram or electrical degree, here is
my understanding. In a properly operating system, when you first turn the
key to ON (before starting) power is supplied to all those dash warning
lights including the charge light. This is like a bulb check to assure you
the lights do indeed work. The source of this voltage is from the battery
through the ignition switch to the alternator diode(s) which complete the
circuit. When the car is started and the alternator produces enough voltage
it feeds backwards into the warning light circuit thus breaking the circuit
that was complete before and shutting off the lights. If the lights are on
without the switch being on at all, then voltage is "leaking" through the
diodes at the alternator and feeding backwards.
Maybe this wil help:
key OFF
batt-->alt->| bulb off X switch<--batt
key ON only
batt-->alt->|<<<-bulb on<--- switch on <--batt
key RUN
batt<-->alt--><---bulb OFF<---switch on <-- batt
Key OFF with bad diode
batt-->alt--->---> bulb ON---->X switch off <--batt
Hope this makes sense, kinda does to me.
Peter C
At 11:30 PM 5/25/99 , Swift Justice wrote:
>
>
>Nory P wrote:
>
>> I can understand the rectifier being his problem with
>> the ignition light, but would that also cause his
>> brake and oil pressure lights to stay on as well?
>>
>> I thought, maybe, during the unplugging and plugging
>> they did during their diagnosis of the original
>> problem, that they may have simply reconnected that
>> stuff to the wrong terminal (hot when ign. off) on the
>> ignition switch. Possible?
>
>No. The connector under the dash that we did unplug was a one way type
>connector - only can be plugged in
>one way.Unplugging the alternator lead with the car off causes the ignition
>light to go off. The oil
>pressure light and brake warning light are on the same circuit.
>
>Steve.
>--
>__
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