I have a set of 'cross-drilled' rotors installed on my bugeye. I only did this,
because I got such a good deal on them at a swap-meet $50-set (new - Yeah guys,
try and 'spoink' that;-). I figure they can't hurt having them installed,
especially since I plan to do some mountain driving, which will require alot of
brake usage.
Unfortunately, I have no way to compare them in braking effectiveness, since
they are the only ones I have ever driven on, so I don't know if they are more
effective than 'solid' ones.
BTW - I do have a NEW set of solid rotors that I'll probably want to get rid of.
Bryan Vandiver (59-bugeye)
San Jose, CA
>Subject: Re: Drilled rotors
>To: gottstein@erols.com, spridgets@autox.team.net
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>
>In a message dated 8/23/99 11:43:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>gottstein@erols.com writes:
>
><< Apparently I need to get new front rotors for my Midget, so I was
> wondering, is it worthwhile to get those "performance" drilled rotors, or
> will I be fine with the regular replacement kind? Anything to stop the
> little guy faster would be welcomed. >>
>
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>The reason for cross drilling brake rotors is to vent hot air away from the
>pads, thereby reducing fade. This is really only necessary when you are
>driving in competition. On the road your pads will have plenty of time to
>cool between braking.
>
>If you have experienced a lot of brake fade in whatever type of driving you
>do, go for the drilled rotors. If you haven't, stay with the less expensive
>solids. Theoretically, a solid rotor has more surface area than a cross
>drilled rotor, so it should stop the car faster, until the pads overheat.
>(IMHO of course.)
>
>Allen Hefner
>'77 Midget
>'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
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