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Re: bleedin' brakes

To: "Tom Zuchowski" <tzuchow@ibm.net>, "Greg Gowins" <cartman@dnai.com>, "Spridgets List" <spridgets@autox.team.net>, "Robert Duquette" <RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: bleedin' brakes
From: "Larry & Sandi Miller" <millerls@ado13.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 16:33:05 -0700
References: <00b501bef33a$42c65720$692c6420@default>
Reply-to: "Larry & Sandi Miller" <millerls@ado13.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Check the archives. Frank posted the sizes some time ago. I don't remember
what they are.

Larry Miller

----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Zuchowski <tzuchow@ibm.net>
To: Greg Gowins <cartman@dnai.com>; Spridgets List
<spridgets@autox.team.net>; Robert Duquette <RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: bleedin' brakes


> What sizes should I order? I have disk/drum brakes from a '67 and a 1275
> ribcase (I REALLY want one on the clutch!!!)
>
> Tom Zuchowski
> '61 Bugeye
> Clemmons, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Gowins <cartman@dnai.com>
> To: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>; Robert Duquette
> <RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca>
> Date: Sunday, August 29, 1999 11:09 PM
> Subject: RE: bleedin' brakes
>
>
> >Robert,
> >
> >I too hate bleeding brakes.  I found a company that makes a nifty little
> >device called SpeedBleeder.  They make a bleeder screw replacement that
> lets
> >NO air back in during the bleeding process.  You don't need another
person,
> >or any special tools.It costs around $8 for each wheel.  Once I put a set
> of
> >these on my Sprite, I had a noticeably tighter feel to my pedal.  No
> >financial interest, just a good company to work with.  The owner sent me
a
> >couple of different sizes on good faith to see which fit best.  Here's
the
> >URL:
> >
> >http://www.speedbleeder.com/
> >
> >If you've used 3/4 of a litre, that should be plenty to push any air or
old
> >fluid out.  What probably happening is that either air is getting in at
the
> >wheel cylinder, or you've got a leak at the master cylinder.  A master
> >cylinder leak doesn't always show itself with leaking fluid.  If the
rubber
> >is old, air can seep in, and you can tell by looking at the fluid in
> >cylinder while the pedal is depressed.  If tiny bubbles appear, you've
got
> a
> >leak.  Hope this helps!
> >
> >Greg Gowins '69 Sprite
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]
> >On Behalf Of Robert Duquette
> >Sent: Sunday, August 29, 1999 6:26 PM
> >To: Spridgets
> >Subject: bleedin' brakes
> >
> >I strongly dislike bleeding brakes!
> >
> >I found an interesting surprize while in my rear brakes.  One of the
> >adjuster wedges was in backwards.  After backing off the adjustment, I
> >couldn't adjust back 'cause there was a flat surface in front of the
screw.
> >
> >And a question: "How much fluid should it take to get any air out of the
> >line between the MC and the rear wheel on the other side of the car?
Apart
> >from the first bit of fluid from that wheel that came out foamy and
greyish
> >brown, I'm getting bubbleless clear fluid.  (Changed it this spring.)
Any
> >yardsticks as to how much to pump through on each wheel?  I've probably
put
> >three quarters of a litre through so far with no more pedal.
> >
> >Did I mention that I have a distaste for bleeding brakes? :)
> >
> >Robert Duquette
> >Ottawa ON Canada
> >http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette
> >RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca
> >'65 RHD BRG Sprite
> >
> >
> >
>
>



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