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Re: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related

To: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] kind of spridget related
From: Trevor Jessie <trevor.jessie@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 14:57:56 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <5197C657.6060509@dinospider.com>
Educate me on those gear ratios and the type of rear end (differential?)
used in this car.


On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 2:20 PM, Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com> wrote:

>    11 years ago I was a younger man (pretty interesting eh ?) and I had a
> unique opportunity to buy a very rare 1934 Singer and when you already own
> a 1934 Singer and say this one is rare you know its unique.
>
>  I have not touched this Singer because I did not want to have 2 cars
> apart at the same time and so I told people it was going to be my
> retirement project, well retirement is too far away and I want it on the
> road.   The reason I mentioned something about being younger is that as I
> have gotten older, I no longer enjoy the moments broken down on the side of
> the road and I enjoy the trouble free driving more so I am thinking of
> doing a engine swap.
>
>  The original motor is a 1493cc 6 cylinder motor of early 1930's
> technology (59 mm. by 91 mm bore-stroke) and I have no idea the HP rating
> of it but it can't be very high. The gearbox is a crashbox with four speeds
> with ratios 5.22, 6.65, 10.68 and 19.43 to 1 and 26.4:1 reverse with silent
> second and third gears, no idea the rear axle ratio.  Fueled by twin Solex
> sidedraft carbs.  The motor has had cracks brazed in the side of the block
> on both sides, the freeze plugs corroded out decades ago and were covered
> by bondo (yes Bondo) to prevent leaks I assume.  I removed the oil pan and
> found wood screws jammed into the block because the oil pan studs were
> broken so they drilled small holes and used wood screws.  The oil pump
> strainer was cut off (presumably to increase oil pressure after too much
> sludge plugged up the strainer) and there appears to be a crack between the
> number 2 and 3 cylinders which allows coolant into the oil sump.  The motor
> can be fixed but its ridiculously expensive and I want reliability.
>
>  I have a Spridget 1275 complete with carbs and gearbox, I have no idea
> the year but it has a 10CG (or is it 10GG?) head which implies its a later
> 1275 motor, no idea of its real condition but its free turning and just
> turning by hand appears to have compression in all 4 cylinders, of course a
> full rebuild is in order.
>
>  I am thinking a newer 1275 will have more HP than a 1930's 1500 motor, it
> will also be lighter and extremely very easily fit into the chassis with no
> permanent mods to the Singer and that the 1275 motor would work well in
> this car.  When I have done motor swaps it was usually to make a hot rod
> with much larger more powerful motors, I have never gone down in size
> before am I stupid to try this ? should I find a 1500 motor from some other
> make ?  There is one of these cars in New Zealand with a VW 2Litre from a
> modern car in it but they also swapped the rear axle and I want to avoid
> that.
>
>  My goal would be to make it reliable and be able to get to freeway speeds
> so I can take it places, if it takes a while to get to that speed that is
> ok with me.
>
>   Wow, long message...
>
>         mike
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets@autox.team.net
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