>> 1) what are recomended front shocks for a 250.
>
> I've had good luck w/Koni's (got them from TRF)
Spax are quite nice, AND you can adjust them without unbolting/etc.
More adjustable than Koni's (12 or 14 levels).
> If you want to go the whole route the "kit" (I think) just has
> bushings for the upper & lower A arms only. While everything's apart
> you can inspect the ball joints for wear, and the inboard attachment
> points for frame to the upper Arms (don't have the book with me to
> name it proper). Check the bottom end of the veritcle links and
> trunnions if necessary, replace the latter.
And refill with oil before reassembly - makes life easier and less
messy later.
>You can also check the
> inboard sides of the lower A arms for roundness (worn lower Arms
> are "egged" out). I don't believe there are replacements for the
> lower A arms (unless you get real lucky and find some NOS or a lightly
> worn set from an auto jumble)
Must be from the UK. :-) TRF has brand-new lower A-Arms for TR6's,
NOS - I'd guess they're the same as the TR250.
> flare weld and redrill the old ones to their proper shape. Inspect
> the tie rod ends for wear and replace if needed. Oh yes, have a look
> at the bump stops and replace them if they're tired.
When I did this I replaced all components that can wear on general
principle. Rack boots would be another thing that deteriorates to redo.
Caliper rebuild and new flexible lines perhaps. I even replaced the wheel
bearings.
My front end was very worn out - the plastic bushings in the outer-
lower were paper thin (compared to about .10" stock), where they still
existed at all.
--
Randell Jesup, Scala R&D.
Randell.Jesup@scala.com
Ex-Commodore-Amiga Engineer, class of '94
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