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Re: Spit/Herald/Vit/GT6 UJ replacement

To: Liquid@massey.ac.nz
Subject: Re: Spit/Herald/Vit/GT6 UJ replacement
From: Phil Willson <P.J.Willson@qmw.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 09:23:17 +0000 (GMT)
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Priority: NORMAL
Hi Pat, England calling!

On Tue, 19 Dec 1995 21:13:35 +0000 Liquid@massey.ac.nz 
(Pat Edwards) wrote:
>Has anyone managed to replace a halfshaft UJ on one of 
the above swing axle
>cars without disconnecting the brakes and removing the 
half-shaft/hub
>assembly from the car?  The manual says this should be 
done so that a vice
>can be used to press out the old UJ.  Would it be 
posssible to just undo
>the diff flange/ halfshaft bolts and remove the UJ in situ 
by placing it in
>a G clamp between a piece of dowel and (say) a large 
socket? 

In general, it should not be possible to remove a UJ 
without using a 'persuading tool' such as a vice.  This is 
because it is intended to be a  tight fit and you need a vice 
to assemble the parts in the first place.  Coupled with the 
effects of time and corrosion, you may even find that a 
vice is not adequate - I have had to resort to a flypress 
before now.

The only exception to this is when the yoke holes have 
spread so that the UJ caps are loose.  If this has 
happened, then a G clamp will work but then, so will a 
finger!  However, whichever yoke has this problem will 
have to be replaced.  Loose UJs give rise to a knocking 
noise which the inexperienced often incorrectly put down 
to being a duff diff.  You can usually see if you've got this 
problem by looking at all 8 bearing caps in turn while 
they're still on the car.  If you can see a ring of bright steel 
round the edge of a cap, under the circlip, then it indicates 
that the cap is loose and rotating in the yoke.  The UJ and 
the faulty yoke should be considered scrap ( which is a 
shame if it's the one on the driveshaft).  

>Can the flange bolts be undone without removing the 
leaf spring from the vertical
>link?

Yes, no problem.  But you'll have to undo either the 
spring/link bolt or the rear trunnion bolt in order to remove 
the unit.  I would suggest the latter and replace all the 
rear trunnion components while you're at it - including the 
bolt.  These items are too often neglected and, at best, 
seize up.  At worst, the bolt shears and the rear end goes 
awry.

A nice job for Christmas.  At least it's warm where you are.  
They're threatening snow in London.

Good luck.

Phil
Triumph Sports Six Club
13/60 Register Secretary

Phil Willson
Electronic Engineering Dept
Queen Mary and Westfield College
Mile End Road
London E1 4NS
UK

Tel: +44 (0)171 975 5338
Fax: +44 (0)181 981 0259
email: p.j.willson@qmw.ac.uk


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