In a message dated 96-11-20 20:03:18 EST, you write:
I guess this missed the group the first time around: see also latest TR6
clutch...
<< Jordan/Klein : the pin between the clutch operating cross shaft and fork
will
> most frequently fail, causing a failure to free the clutch,(see previous
> comment about checking the slave cyl. pushrod for movement) or a harder
pedal
> effort. Whilst no one is looking, take your copper hammer and tap
> (understatement) the shaft arm back & forth until the pin fails and you
can
> get the pieces apart. I have never broken the parts this way, but be
advised
> that new ones are expensive.
> THE SOLUTION: after installing a new standard pin, drill the fork &
shaft
> assy. @ 90 degrees from the pin & off to the side of it & install a roll
pin
> (1/4" min) to better tie the fork to the shaft. Do not use a roll pin that
is
> too long or it will be hard to get out later. Safety wire the pin through
its
> I D.
This is even strong enough for an AP formula 2, twin plate clutch, and much
less trouble and expense than the slave cylinder in the bell housing idea.
The cross shaft bushings (if worn) in the bell housing are easy to tap in
and out, and you can use two of the later(TR6) ones per side to cover wear on
the cross shaft.
> Good Luck from a TR3 racer
>>
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