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Re: TR6 clutch Hydraulics question

To: "Michael Grey"<mike@hmsgroup.com>
Subject: Re: TR6 clutch Hydraulics question
From: peb3@cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes)
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 08:48:26 +0100
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Michael Grey asks about his clutch:
>I am the original owner of a 73 TR6. I'm also new to the list and
>would appreciate some advice concerning clutch hydraulics. I believe
>the locking bolt which holds the fork to the cross shaft on my
>clutch has sheared, I suspect this because the clutch slave cylinder
>piston does not retract when the clutch is depressed and will
>actually extend far enough to completely come out of the cylinder
>body when repeatedly engaged. Other symptoms are (1) I can't change
>gears (2) when started in gear, the clutch spins under light power
>loads. I haven't pulled the clutch yet to verify this theory.

It sounds to me like you have several problems. The fact that the clutch
spins indicates that it's time for a new clutch. With this in mind buy ALL
the parts for the clutch and release fork; fork, pin, cross-shaft,
bushings. The behavior of the slave cylinder says there is a problem in the
hydraulics, as you suspect (see below) .

>My local British car shop (SF Bay Area) suggested that I let him
>weld the fork to the cross shaft to preclude future problems, says
>he does it all the time. Is this a good idea or should I just
>replace the pin once I figure out how to extract it from the shaft?

Make your car the exception to his rule. The pin, if it is broken, is
probably the original. The design is not the best, but it works. I can see
no point in getting brand new parts and putting them together wrong. If you
are inclined, do the job yourself. It is not all that hard, but takes about
8 hours due to the fiddling with the upholstery.

>Also are there variations on clutch slave cylinders for the TR6, the
>original one I removed was mounted by passing the cylinder body
>through the mounting bracket, [as depicted in my work shop manual
>and Haynes]. The replacement cylinder I got from MOSS appears to
>bolt on the other side of the mounting bracket which doesn't look
>right. Did I get the wrong part? Is this what could be causing one
>of my problems?

I recall some discussion on this matter a while back. The cylinder must be
mounted on the rear face of the plate to operate properly. It seems that
some parts will not permit this, so the hole in the plate must be enlarged.
You did not get the wrong part, but one that is not an exact replacement.
This may be the reason for the odd behavior. Hope this helps.


Philip E. Barnes       '71 TR6  CC61193L
Cornell University
Newman Laboratory of Nuclear Studies
Ithaca, NY 14853
607-255-4951
peb3@cornell.edu



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