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Re: New 74 Spitfire Owner

To: badams@cyberport.com
Subject: Re: New 74 Spitfire Owner
From: Martin_A._Secrest@NEB.VOA.GOV
Date: 8 Jan 97 12:20:10
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Barry --

Welcome to the Spitfire!  Your ı74, like mine, will probably take a little 
while to get to where it is running and looking as you would like.  Iıve had 
mine since last spring, and Iıve done a lot of work on it so far, but it is 
certainly coming along.   This list is a PRIME resource, with some very good 
and knowledgable people -- Iıve also gotten a lot of help from a British car 
shop in my area, which is more like a ŞclubŞ than a garage, with a lot of 
interaction between customers and mechanincs.  

For your turn signal and gauge outages, I must ask if you have you checked your 
fuse box?  I know it sounds simplistic, but the little copper ŞpincersŞ that 
hold in the Spit fuses will splay over time, and unless they are making 
absolute, firm contact with the fuse, you will get function loss.  Start with 
the top fuse, which should control your signals, brake lights and fuel/temp 
gauges (there are three fuses altogether, plus space for a spare).  Jam 
something non-conductive in the side of each pincer, and see if your gauges and 
blinkers come back.  This was the  problem I encountered when I had symptoms 
such as youıve described.   Iım not yet very familiar with the relays system -- 
but in my engine compartment, there are separate relays for the signals and 
horn (horn relay on right as you look at it), and the hazard flasher probably 
lurks elsewhere.  Sorry for the ignorance, but someone else on the list will 
know.  (Relays, incidentally, can be opened up and inspected.   Water can enter 
them and corrode con
nections -- just resolder and reseal with Permatex or some such ... )

 Having just gotten your new/old Spitfire, you will no doubt start with all the 
simple things -- by changing or topping up your tranny and diff. lubricant 
(standard hypoid gear oil), changing fuel and air filters, getting a tune-up, 
adjusting valves, etc.   Use Castrol LMA brake fluid for both brake and clutch 
systems.   If your carb. needs an overhaul (mine did), this is a full Friday 
nightıs job for the uniformed (I was).   A Stromberg rebuild kit is about $20.  
As for a manual, I use the one by Haynes -- cheaper than the Bentley, though 
not as good.   Consider, too, that your brakes, tie-rod ends, front trunions 
and such will likely need replacing.  This is messy or expensive work, but 
should be done for fun and safety.  I had my LBC shop basically replace my 
front end shortly after I got the car, and my calipers and pads were shot too.  
If braking requires a lot of pressure on the pedal,  suspect your calipers/pads 
or drums.  Rear leaf spring may have the car sitting a little low, too, but 
thatıs no big 
deal -- the part is about $150 and a three or four hour job to install, if you 
care to do it at all.

After that, you can start to get down to the little stuff.   Keep me apprised!

Martin Secrest
ı74 Spitfire 1500
FM18943 

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