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Adjusting TR-3 clutch slave cylinder

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net, british-cars@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Adjusting TR-3 clutch slave cylinder
From: John Cowan <jfcowan@sj.zNET.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 13:14:01 -0800 (PST)
        After replacing the missing clutch operating shaft return spring and
adjusting the clutch actuator rod end float on my TR-3, clutch action
changed radically.  Formerly, the clutch engaged near the top of the pedal
throw - after I pushed the clutch in at most an inch.  Now, the clutch
engages when the pedal is only about an inch from the floor.  
        Exactly what happened is a mystery to me, as I'll explain, and I'm
concerned if I have done this right.
        When I started, there seemed to be zero actuator rod end float.
After I disconnected the actuator rod fork from the clutch operating shaft,
it almost fell out of the cylinder.  So I pushed it back in place,
reconnected it and then unscrewed the lock nut on the rod.  Now I was able
to unscrew the rod from the fork (thus lengthening it) almost 3/8" before it
was solidly resisted by the piston face (but I didn't force it).  In fact,
it seemed to be completely unscrewed from the actuator rod fork.  I turned
it back in a bit and unturned it again, this time getting resistance before
it fully unscrewed.  Then I turned the lock nut ahead until there was .079"
clearance between it and the face of the fork - as the manual specifies. I
turned both the lock nut and the rod in until the lock nut was flush with
the fork end and then tightened it (enough?).  Next I replaced the spring,
needing to stretch the coil to double its length.  When I worked the clutch,
as noted above, its action had entirely changed.
        Any comments?    Where formerly I was concerned that the clutch was
nearly worn out; now I'm wondering if the pressure plate is being completely
retracted when the clutch is actuated.
        Thanks.
John Cowan

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