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Re: Thanks -wiring and dizzy settings

To: Chris Prugh <prubrew@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Thanks -wiring and dizzy settings
From: Charlie Brown <cb1500@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 1997 20:21:30 -0700
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
References: <01BCA220.F9EDDDA0@mhl-ca1-01.ix.netcom.com>
Chris,

>>   Re: top end - I am running larger tires (185/70-13) than he (165/80-13) 
>and I have the overdrive whereas he does not.  I got the 
mechanical advance distributor, but left it at the factory setting as I 
don't know which way to adjust it.  How do you determine what the limits 
are at any given position?  I suppose I could go in and make incremental 
adjustments and test.  I will check the accelerator's throw today.  I 
have only sighted from the linkage end, not the actual cable settings.>>

Did you get a little plastic step-wedge tool with your dizzy? The steps 
allow you to adjust the mechanical advance from about 16-28 deg.  There 
should also have been a sheet packed with the dizzy telling you how to 
make the adjustment. Basically, the contact plate has to come off and the 
tool is inserted into two opposing slots that each have a limiter locked 
in place by a screw. You loosen the screw, insert the tool to the notch 
that corresponds to the amount of advance you want, push the limiter up 
to the tool, and lock down the screw. 

If you didn't get the instructions and tool, get on the horn to Mallory, 
or whoever you got the dizzy from, and tell them you were shorted on the 
order. I can FAX a copy of the instructions if that will help. 

>>    I have a 4-2-1 header waiting till I pass the smog later this  month.  I 
>will have it jet-hot coated as it is the mild steel.  As it is, 
I may have to switch back to the stock ZS and manifold just to pass the 
visual part of the inspection unless I find a sympathetic shop who will 
take the readings without failing me because of the Weber.>>

Hmmm, I remember that trick. I use to have two intake set-ups; one for 
inspection, and one for everyday driving. Actually, once you get the hang 
of it--swapping accelerator cable, hoses, etc., it ain't that tough.

>>     As for the motor itself, I did a stock rebuild on my 1296, with 20 over 
>pistons and the stock cam. Didn't really think that out too well at 
the time.  I don't know what he's done to his 1500.  Could the extra cc's 
alone be enough to produce the extra top end?>>

Not likely. Chances are it has more to do with a smoother, larger 
induction (throttle opening fully, porting and polishing), better 
internal engine balancing, and better exhaust scavaging. Are you both 
running the same jets in the Webers? Take a look. Better still, check 
your CO reading at, say, 4500 rpm. You may also be running out of jet at 
higher rpms. If you hold the rpms at a cruising speed, while the car's 
attached to a CO meter, watch the reading. If you're around 17-19%, 
you're running out of fuel. Pushing down the highway, you're car should 
be running closer to 14%. While you're holding that highway rpm, hit the 
TDC timing mark with an advance timing light. If at 4500 you've got, say 
24-26 degrees advance, you're running out of spark.

If anything, a 1296, because of it's shorter stroke, should spin better 
at higher rpm.

That's a start. Good luck.
Charlie B.



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