At 06:56 PM 8/7/97 -0700, Mark Stahlke wrote:
>Thanks to all who responded to my questions about the TR6 vacuum retard
>switch. The issue is much clearer now (sorta). Thanks.
>
>Next up:
>Tomorrow morning I'm taking my TR6 to a local shop recommended by a member of
>the Rocky Mountain Triumph Club to get an estimate on repairing my cracked
>diff mounts. I understand this is fairly common problem on the TR6. I'd like
>to know if anyone out there has been through this and what your experiences
>were. What would be a resonable cost for this repair?
>
>Thanks again,
>Mark
>
> when you say cracked diff. mounts, I asume it is the diff mounting
studs pulling loose from the frame and cracking it. The proper way would be
to lift off the frame. Short of this the best easy fix I have seen is with
threaded rod. Remove the diff. The 4 bolts are welded to the frame at the
top and bottom. The bottom can be gotten to easily an repaired by
fabricating and welding in new metal. If the bolts at the top have weakened
or broken loose, they need to be removed. Cut a 16 ga. or larger plate with
a hole in it the size of the rod and stud. Cut it so that it overhangs the
upper part of the frame about l/2 inch. Place the plate atop the frame, run
the threaded rod thru the lower part of the frame, run a nut and lockwasher
2 inches down the rod, run the rod thru the upper part of the frame and the
plate, place a nut on the rod between the body and plate above the frame,
align, tighten the lower nut. Being careful of the gas tank (drain it and
fill it with water) and the undercoating, weld the plate to the frame along
the overhang. Weld the rod to th lower part of the frame. Cut the rod to the
proper length
Sam Haynes TR3 Original Owner
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