>> Have the same problem in every Spitfire I've had. The
>> problem I see is the hole in the pedal assy itself gets
>> elongated, not the holes in the actuating rod.
>
>Exactly! Both parts wear (and need fixing on my TR6s).
>Have you actually performed the insertion of a steel
>bush? Did it work? How is it holding up? How long
>has it been in use?
**********************
Ken,
Yes, I did it for my old 72' about 18 years ago, still in there today.
Looks and works as good as it did when I first installed it. Did the same
thing to my GT6 when I restored it, and will do this to the project
Spitfire when I get around to it ( just finished welding the left rear wing
on last night, just a little more patch work and its on to sanding and
painting oh joy!!!)
I can't remember the exact dimensions, since it was so long ago, but I do
remember that at the time the wear was so sever that even with enlarging
the hole I couldn't completely remove the 'slot'. It had almost worn
through the pedal assembly. The advantage of the bushing, besides riding
in a much larger (more surface area, reduced loading) is that the bushing
can be made larger in width, actually as large as the opening in the fork,
minus a slight clearance. This provides a much improved, larger, wear
resistant area for the pin to ride against. I didn't weld or braze the
bushing into the pedal assembly, but instead allowed it to 'float', but I
would think that welding or brazing, or even epoxy would be just as effective.
Barry Schwartz in San Diego, CA
Bschwartz@encad.com
72-V6/5sp Spitfire ( daily driver )
70 GT6+ ( when I don't drive the Spitfire )
70 (sorta) Spitfire ( project )
73 Ford Courier ( parts hauler )
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