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RE: TR3A Transmission Removal

To: lermanis@netspace.net.au
Subject: RE: TR3A Transmission Removal
From: "Jack I. Brooks" <brooks@belcotech.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 12:37:32 -0400
Cc: Triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Chris,

>1. Would things go more smoothly if two persons were involved in the
>extraction, perhaps using some sort of sling/support at the O/D end?

When I took mine out this winter, I had a friend over to help.  Putting a
floor jack underneath to support the tranny helped more than the friend;
just make sure it can roll backward to facilitate removal.  The Haynes
manual recommended using a friend with a sling, however it looked difficult
to get the front of the tranny supported well with just sling at the back.

NOTE: It is very important that the tranny be pulled straight out without
loading the input shaft.  

When it came time to put it back in I did it by myself, using the floor jack
to support and align the tranny.  It was surprisingly easy.  The tranny
weighs about 75-100 pounds, easy enough to handle alone if you are careful
about your back.

Overall I like the floor jack better than a friend as you can make sure
everything is aligned without any muscle power holding it in place and
thereore NO RUSHING.  Everything must be aligned to remove or install it, so
take your time.  I find that I take more time when I am alone.  JMHO!

>2.The starter looks to be a nuisance in the operation.

Just remove the heavy power cable from it along with the two bolts holding
it on.  You can still rest it within the engine compartment.  Now is also a
good time to make sure all the electrical cables and contacts are in good
condition too. 

Before I put everything back together, I used dry spray lube (resin binder
with teflon/graphite lube impregnated) on the starter (pinion?) and flywheel
gears, as they should be assembled dry.  Definitely not by the book, but it
certainly can't hurt and should help these parts last.  Again, JMHO.  

>What other items should be "a must" to renew/replace/adjust/modify/etc.,
>while I am going to all this effort?

I installed a 5/16th, grade 8 bolt opposite the taper pin on the clutch
fork, but the members of the list are split on this repair.  Some have had
good experiences with only the taper pins, some like a supplimental system,
as a back up.  It's your call.  I can provide additional info if you are
interested.

Good luck.

Jack   


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