Carl :
The TR4/A Competition Preparation manual recommends removing .150" from
the cylinder head, and implies this is no problem if you have the
correct head for your car, which should have a flat on the bottom of the
water outlet at the front of the head. Kas Kastner says to check for
interference between the water outlet, and the top of the water pump,
grinding mostly the water pump for clearance. He also says you will
need to trim 1/4" from the bottom of the manifold gaskets.
Of course, the .150" mill is only for racing, the 11.7 CR that Kas talks
about will not be happy with pump gas ! But, it is a good indication of
how much metal can be removed.
If you do get your CR too high, you can either remove some metal from
the combustion chamber (as Kas recommends for breathing), or use an
extra thick head gasket from Mordy Dunst. Or, do as I do, and add a
dash of MMT octane improver to each tank of premium gas.
Randall
CarlSereda@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi List,
> Last time I had the TR4 cylinder head machined (15 years ago) it seemed they
> took alot of meat off the bottom face (push rod tubes were untouched prior,
> now they all got machined indicating at least a 1/16th was taken off in my
> guesstimation.
> In refreshing the head right now it looks like I need to have more taken off
> to 'true' the warped face again.
>
> I looked in my two Workshop and Maintenance manuals and nothing is mentioned
> about machining the face at all. Right now the depth, from the valve cover
> seat (top of head) to the cylinder face (bottom of head), is 3 and 5/16ths
> inches.
> I'm guessing the machine shop may have to take off 1/32nd to clean it up.
>
> Anyone have an idea of correct range - I imagine when the valves start
> hitting the piston tops I've gone too far!
> And speaking of aluminum pushrod tubes - anyone have a good solution to seal
> them puppies up from seaping oil?
>
> Regards,
> Carl
> '64 TR4 since '74
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