Fixing the TAC cable is easy if you buy a new one. No tools required, to
remove just unscrew behind the TAC and at the distributor and feed it
through the firewall, installation is the reverse process. Before buying a
new one, I would check it out, first. Disconnect the cable at the TAC,
start the engine, and see if the inner cable spins. If it does pull th
einner cable out and put a variable speed drill on one end and the other
end back in the TAC. If spinning the drill turns the TAC, you probably need
a cable. If it doesn't you probably need TAC repair work.
Now come the religeous wars - what to lubricate the TAC cable with before
installing it. Some say nothing, some say light vegtable oil. I don't
think you can go wrong with graphite.
Speedomenter is the same, by the way, only you have to crawl under the car
to get at it.
Good luck,
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Peca <sppchicago@excite.com>
To: Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer@mindspring.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: At Last... (longish)
> I'm actually surprised by the number of people who thought I was a little
> crazy driving ten hours from Duluth in November. Oh well, I know I had
> fun.
>
> Anyway, the heater valve under the hood was open. I think what may have
> happened was (almost) overall electrical failure. The seller pointed out
a
> rats nest of wiring and connections and said "if there's a problem, this
is
> likely where it will be". So, my first task is to re-build all those
> connections.
>
> As far as the tach problem, my gut tells me you are probably correct about
> the connection on the back. How easy is it to fix?
>
> Regards,
>
>
> On Sun, 21 Nov 1999 20:23:41 -0800, Kinderlehrer wrote:
>
> >
> > There's a fine line between a wee bit daft and off to the institution
> with
> > you :-) Anyway, probability is that the cable snapped on your TACand
> > speedometer from lack of lubrication - or it may have rounded out where
> it
> > goes into the back of the TAC - had that happen with my speedometer
> cable.
> > Easy enough to check out.
> >
> > Did you check the heater control valve under the hood to make sure it
was
> > open?
> >
> > Glad you made it back and welcome to the proud brother/sisterhood
> > (personhood?) of TR3 owners - the ones with the chattering teeth.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: D. Michael Scott <dms@snip.net>
> > To: Stephen P. <sppchicago@excite.com>
> > Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 21, 1999 7:48 PM
> > Subject: Re: At Last... (longish)
> >
> >
> > >
> > > That's the Spirit I like Stephen!!! You gotta be a wee bit daft to
join
> > the LBC
> > > club, and lovin' every minute!! Glad you survived a winter Fargo in a
> > TR3A -
> > > sounds surreal and d*** frigid! Best of luck with your new vehicle!!
> > > D. Michael/TR6
> > >
> > > "Stephen P." wrote:
> > >
> > > > Well, on Friday, I bought a one-way airplane ticket to Duluth, MN (a
> > very
> > > > expensive ticket, I might add) to purchase a 1958 TR3A. I then
drove
> > the
> > > > car back to suburban Chicago on Saturday, an approximately 537 mile,
> > 10-hour
> > > > trip (approximate because the odometer is non- functioning; the
> mileage
> > > > estimate is from mapblast.com). The owner was wonderful to work
> with.
> > Even
> > > > though I brought some of my own tools, he insisted on giving some
> extra
> > > > tools, and went out that morning to buy a jack just in case I had a
> flat
> > > > tire on the drive back. He owned the car for six years, having
> bought
> > the
> > > > car from a fellow in New York state who had owned the car for about
> 13
> > > > years.
> > > >
> > > > The car is mostly original. The body work is acceptable, but a lot
> of
> > > > misaligned panels - particularly one side of the bonnet where it
> meets
> > the
> > > > fender. Someone along the way did a very amateur paint job and it
> shows
> > on
> > > > (less than five feet) inspection. The interior is in very good
shape
> as
> > is
> > > > the top.
> > > >
> > > > The car ran fine during the drive except the tachometer started
> > chattering
> > > > and squealing as soon as I got on the highway and then gave out.
> This
> > > > really scared me, because my first thought was the transmission was
> > giving
> > > > out. But I reached under the dash, felt for the tach cable, and
felt
> > the
> > > > vibration. (Any ideas on the problem?)
> > > >
> > > > Actually, in addition to the tachometer, the speedometer, gas gauge,
> > etc.
> > > > don't work either which made the trip a little more challenging, but
> a
> > lot
> > > > of fun. The hand brake kind of works, but hte seeler provided me
with
> a
> > > > wood block that works quite well.
> > > >
> > > > The worst part, was the heater didn't work. I thought I was
prepared
> > for
> > > > the drive with a heavy coat, gloves and a head band to cover my
ears,
> > but it
> > > > was d*** cold. Gas stations doubled as heat warming centers for me.
> It
> > > > took me an hour to warm up once I got home. My face is still red a
> day
> > > > later from frostbite (I think). Bear in mind this is past the
middle
> of
> > > > November in Duluth and Northern Wisconsin, yet here I am driving an
> LBC.
> > > > Cold, but no snow or ice.
> > > >
> > > > I have benefitted from much of the advice on this list and will now
> rely
> > on
> > > > it a lot more. I want to thank everyone in advance for any help I
> get
> > from
> > > > lurking or posting, and I will try to post anything I learn in my
> > > > adventures.
> > > >
> > > > Steve Peca
> > > > Wheaton, Illinois
> > > > 1958 TR3A - TS23867L
> > > >
> > > > Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com
> > > > Talk online at http://voicechat.excite.com
> > >
> >
>
> Steve Peca
> Wheaton, Illinois
> 1958 TR3A - TS23867L
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com
> Talk online at http://voicechat.excite.com
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