On Sat, 27 Nov 1999 19:16:43
"Adrian Dix-Dyer" <dixie4@wales.freeserve.co.uk>
Wrote: Improvement list
With regard to Ken's idea of a list of improvements without thought of
keeping originality here is my two pennyworth for a TR4A. (also not taking
into account availability of parts for this model)
1 Fit a brake servo and rear disc brakes (Dolomite Sprint)
2 Junk the rear shocks and fit Bilstein gas filled telescopic shocks all
round.
3 Fit anti-roll bars front and rear.
4 Fit anti tramp bars and panhard rod to rear live axle.
5 Fit rollover bar
6 Fit high speed low profile tyres and mag alloy wheels
7 Fit rally bucket seats and four point seat belts.
8 Throw out the tractor engine and fit at least a 300bhp Rover/Buick V8
engine and 5 speed gearbox.
9 Fit high power sound system to drown out the rattles and noise
10 Fit a power soft top (it rains a lot in UK)
I agree with about all of the above:
But perhaps the order of enhancements should be different? (I prefer that
word to modification, which has more than a hint of that dirty word
'customised' about it, although 'improvements' is good.)
When you start with a 'normal' (ha - standard) - Triumph Motor Car, that has
previously been with DP owners who have kept it 100% standard, you should
consider removing the Crossply tyres and replacing them with Radials, less
excitement true, but lots more grip, and most probably better at displacing
water and thus with shorter stopping distances...(On Triumphs, I like
Goodyears, Pirelli or Avons but your opinion may differ).
Next up are the wheels, It really depends on what you want to do with your
car, but most folk want a 'fast road car', and remember that the road can be
every bit as demanding as the racetrack, due to longer distances being driven
at fairly high speeds, and more likely than not, poor road surfaces, in one
of the two seasons: (winter and construction!), I usually recommend going up
at least one inch in width for a road car. and maybe two for a race car.
If you have room under your wheelarches, you might like to go for an extra
inch in diameter, but that will of course also increase the cost of your
tyres! (Looks cool though!)
If it's show you are after, more than go, by all means fit wires., but if you
want good road wheels, then the answer is always alloys, because you can get
them balanced and they don't flex and bend like wires.
(I have tried many types of wheels on my Triumphs, and nowadays favour Alloy
wheels for everyday use, but if you want to go rough road rallying, please
use steels!)
I have seen what happens to alloys when they go sideways until they hit an
obstruction!!! The Triumph driver is lucky to be alive!
The original type of dampers are probably worn and in need of replacement or
rebuild. Get rid of those lever arms, they are difficult and expensive to get
rebuilt, and fit new good quality telescopics all round, I prefer Konis
having had bad experiences with Spax in the past.
So, now it should have enough grip to stay on the road, and a decent
footprint.
As the springs on your car are probably rather limp after many years of
holding up all that dead weight, you might consider changing those next...
Slightly shorter front springs give the car a really mean and purposeful
look, but don't go too short, or mother earth will make her presence felt,
usually by ripping off your entire exhaust system at the most inopportune
moment.
The rear spring, probably causes the back of the car to lean one way or the
other,
usually to the left, for some reason....So a new one of those can reap rewards
If you have a Triumph with a transverse rear leaf spring bolted to the top of
the differential, then change it immediately for a 'swing spring' conversion
from John Kipping in Coventry, England. A great investment as it transforms
the cars handling characteristics (I'm being kind).
If you like playing around with suspension settings and stuff, you can always
junk that heavy old cart spring and fit a coil-over rear damper conversion.
I must also recommend that all the original rubber suspension bushes on the
car are being replaced with Urethane 'Superflex' bushes, which last much
longer and are unaffected by oil.
I do mean ALL the bushes BTW, including those on the differential and
steering rack.
(Steering Rack bushes may also be replaced with Aluminium, to give the
ultimate in positive steering...BTW, whilst you are there, how is that
steering rack?
Need a rebuild does it? When do you suppose it was last oiled anyway?
Oh really, you didn't know it needed oiling? hmmm. (just like the DPO)
Braking systems on these cars were perfectly adequate when the cars, and
their braking systems were new...but not nowadays...on roads populated with
mindless morons driving 'hot hatches' with all round disc brakes which they
will insist on driving right up to, and often beyond the limits of the cars,
and their own abilities...
You will probably find that much of your cars braking system is well and
truly 'knackered' If the pipes are over 15 years old...replace them right
now, the best material is kunifer (Cupro-Nickle Alloy), much better than
copper. Unions should be in Brass and hoses stainless steel braided. Brake
Pads are available now in Kevlar, which are excellent. If you have a Triumph
with small callipers, discs and drums, and there is a later or more powerful
model available, then simply upgrade to those.
Or if you have lots of money, then go for four-piston callipers and
ventilated discs.
(not cross-drilled, but properly ventilated discs)
If you wish to retain original solid discs, make sure they are new, as old
ones can get very thin...you won't believe some of the things I have seen on
cars being driven.
A remote vacuum Servo is a good idea, especially if you have weak legs, but
it won't make your brakes any better and is no substitute for really good
brakes.
Oh yes, and don't forget to rebuild or replace that master cylinder!
If the old seals blow...well goodbye cruel world!
For a road car Silicon Fluid is perfectly OK, just as long as you replace all
the rubber in the system before using it.
I have found that it can cause problems due to differential swelling of the
rubber seals in the servo unit if normal fluid is replaced with silicon fluif
without changing all the rubbers first. (after I changed back, there were no
further problems)
A race car, however, is a very different story! Silicon Fluid is not
recommended for them.
OK, now you've got grip, suspension, handling and stopping power.
And I haven't even mentioned the engine or transmission, ancillaries etc
etc...
You want more?
I better not use any more bandwidth on this message...
Wait for the next one...
Léon F Guyot
Triumph Sports Six Club
International Liaison Secretary
1963 Triumph Vitesse 2-Litre Convertible
nb. Disclaimer: All of the above are only my personal opinions, based on my
personal experiences, and I accept no responsibility whatsoever, from anyone
if they follow them and they don't work, or otherwise cause problems of any
kind.
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