>Hello all. I have been on an exhaustive, nationwide search for a '67 or '68
>Spitfire Mk3 (fueled by my mid-life crisis, ha ha) and by some strange
>miracle, found one practically in my backyard from an ad on the Internet
>late last night. I'm driving over to take a look about noon today (3 hours
>from posting this).
>
>Structurally, I know what to look for and where (I'll be bringing my floor
>jack, flashlight and magnet), but according to the current owner, it "needs
>to have the radiator cleaned and installed and could use a tune up and new
>tires". Obviously, I won't be able to start the motor.
>
>If the car is in halfway decent, original condition (the current
>owner says "very clean and original", I'll buy her on the spot and begin
>restoration tomorrow. But how can I tell that the engine hasn't siezed or
>the transmission isn't a basket case when I can't even start it? I guess I
>can try turning the engine by hand and seeing if the cylinders are free
>(please refresh my memory on how to do that -- it's been over 20 years since
>I've owned a Spitfire). The price seems about right unless the running gear
>is totally shot. Can some of you Spitfire experts give me some tips on what
>I CAN look for during my visual inspection of the drive train components?
You can try putting the transmission in high gear and gently rocking
the car back and forth. High gear (3rd, 4th) is where it is easiest
for the wheels to turn the motor. You should be able to see the
crank pulley turn at least slightly. If the generator and water pump
are on, and the belt is too, then you'll be able to watch the belt
move. Be SURE that the ignition is OFF and there is no reasonable
way they car could start before doing this. Pull the plug wires. (it
doesn't need a radiator to start!) If you pull the plugs completely,
then you should be able to move the car forward and watch the pulley
turn all the way around.
For the body, look at the floor pans and the rockers as the first
places that usually rot, although you may have to expect to replace
at least part of the floorpans on many Spitfires. Also check in the
front of the rear wheel wells, where the suspension arm joins the
body (right behind the seats).
I don't know of a way to check out the transmission in a non-working
car. You could, I guess, drain the transmission oil and look for
metal chunks and/or silvery residue-like stuff (indications that
gears & such are wearing). Some may be expected on a car this old --
how much is excessive, I don't know.
>
>What tools should I bring? Finding a structurally sound local car (the
>current owner says "no rot" -- something I'll actually be able to confirm
>with my own two eyes) in the exact year and model I was looking for that I
>don't have to ship (okay, I WILL have to have it towed!) would be a dream
>come true. If it turns out that the car needs considerably more than the
>owner
>has stated, do I have any recourse after the sale?
I don't know about recourse after the sale, but the fact probably is
that many cars will need more than their owner even recognizes.
There's always something tucked away somewhere that is only revealed
on disassembly. On my TR3, it's a rotten side post on the passenger
side which wasn't visible until the interior came out. Anyway, point
is that you too will find things during your restoration which will
make you want to curse the DPO -- when it's quite probable he or she
had no idea the problem existed. (of course, some do and conceal it,
but not most I would wager).
It depends, too, on the type of restoration you are going to do. If
you are taking the car down to the frame and bare metal, you don't
care if the suspension bushings and maybe even the tie rod ends are
worn, as you'll be replacing them anyway. If you're doing a cosmetic
restoration, then obviously you do care, as that would be extra
expense -- making the car worth less, to you anyway.
And if you do have it towed, have it towed on a flatbed! Who knows
how long it has been since those rear axle bearings were greased!
Hope this helps.
Dan
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