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Water..what I've learned

To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Water..what I've learned
From: Dennis & Bridget Lambert <blambert@socal.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 21:49:09 -0800
First, thanks to all who responded to the initial problem of finding
water pooling on the head under the rear of the rocker arm shaft.  This
is what I have learned so far:
1) Find the source.  I ran my engine until certain the water was
circulating, turned it off, removed the valve cover, and went to work
with a rag, cleaning all oil from the rocker assembly and from the top
of the head. Soon enough, water was wicking up the left rear head stud.
It was also suggested to check the the aluminum core plug located in the
top middle of the head.  In my case, this was not the problem.
2) Water wicking up head studs suggests either: a) The stud may have
been over tightened in the block, causing small cracks into the water
jacket, allowing water to move up the stud, or, b) A small crack has
developed in the head where the stud passes through, again letting water
in to the stud space, which then seeps out onto the head.  Apparently
this is somewhat common in the 4 cylinder TR's.
Here's what was recommended::
1) If the problem is (a):
    1. Drain block of coolant.
    2. remove said stud (the double-nut technique works well)
    3. clean hole with appropriate solvent, allow to dry
    4. fill stud hole with approx. 1/2 tsp. non hardening sealer, i.e.
Permatex
    5. coat threads of stud with sealant, and replace stud.
2) If the problem is (b):
    1. Drain block of coolant.
    2. Remove the nut and washer from the stud, coat the stud threads
and both sides of the washer with blue RTV, reassemble, tighten to spec,
and let cure for 24 hours.
    3. Refill coolant, and, as they say, "you're off to the races".
There is still water in the area around the stud, but as long as it
doesn't escape (due to the RTV), it doesn't matter - it's not going to
hurt anything.
My problem appears to have been (b).  I have run my engine for about an
hour after the "blue RTV treatment", and have found no water where there
shouldn't be.  YMMV.  As was suggested, be sure to change the oil.  It
is very easy for water to travel from the top of the head down the push
rod holes to the sump (gravity and so forth).
I have paraphrased much fine information sent me by  members of the list
(and just plain copied some of it) - if corrections need to be made,
don't hesitate to respond.   And, as always, thanks for sharing your
technical expertise. It helps.

Dennis
'61 TR3A, Orange, CA


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