Message text written by INTERNET:Eganb@aol.com
>1. I took the oil pump off today. Like the crankshaft, it is also is
>scored/grooved -- in this case where the outer "star" gear rotates around
the
>oil pump body -- leading me to further suspect that sometime in the past
>something disintegrated in the engine, spreading metal parts throughout
the
>oil system. Anyway, is this type of wear significant in terms of the oil
>pumps ability to pump oil? I ask in ignorance since I really don't
>understand exactly how the two rotating gears are able to pump oil. I'll
>also check the wear between the two "star" gears.
Yes, indeed. This is a "positive displacement" pump and the clearences
between the gears and the body allow leakage from the poessure side to the
suction side. The larger these clearences are the more leakage will
occure. The is the major (or only) cause of reduced pump capacity and
causes lower oil pressure when the oil is warm. Take it to your machinist
and ask him but it sounds like you need a new pump.
>2. I thought I would take the distributor out to clean it. Since I
already
>have the timing chain off and will have to make sure the crank, cam and
>distributor are all in the right position when I put the chain back on,
can I
>take the distributor off without bothering to mark its location?
Why not? You have to retime the whole thing anyway. The bookj should have
detailed instructions on doing this.
>3. I know what the clutch alignment tool is for when re-assembling the
>clutch, but Victoria British also sells a locating dowel. What is that
for?
Are these the steel pins on the fly wheel that locate the clutch pressure
plate?
>4. Moss, TRW and Victoria British don't carry the o-ring that goes
between
>the pump and the pump cover. (they do carry the one between the pump and
>the block) Any ideas of who else might have this part?
take your old O-ring to a bearing house or another industrial supplier of
O-rings. They may be able to match it.
>5. I'm going to take a look at the transmission tomorrow, and I know the
>rear engine mount is totally soaked. Any obvious gaskets/seals to replace
>while the transmission is out of the car? How about putting in a new oil
>pump kit just for safety?
That has been recommended in the past. I didn't do it when I had my
transmission out. Probably should have.
>6. I'm also going to look at the steering which is really tight --
always
>has been since I bought the car three months ago. I know in my old VW
that
>stiffness in the steering could be a sign of someone having tightened the
>adjustment bolt in the center too tight, sometimes to make a worn rack and
>pinion feel better. So, what to look for in a TR7?
Different type of steering altogether. Is the steering stiff with the
weight off of the car? If so it could be that the rack is dry and needs
lubrication. Check the manual on what to put in there. In my old MG days
(yes we all have skeletons in the closet) my rack went dry and the steering
was stiff. wouldn't self center. Poured in some gear lube and the
steering looseed up straight away.
If the rack checks out check the ball joints and the strut pivots.
>You know, if the engine blows up after we put it back together, how about
>turning the TR7 into an electric car?....
Someone in California converted a Spitfire years ago. If you lived in So
Cal there might be some points to be made. But I think you'll balk at
buying $2000 worth of batteries. Every 3 years.
Good luck
Dave
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