Barry, I can't speak for powder coating, but my limited experience with
POR-15, as well as comments to the list from others, tells me that POR is
VERY durable. I dropped a lower control arm on a cement floor and didn't
even scratch the surface. PC <may> be more durable (the gospel according to
FT), but if you can't use that, POR may offer a comparable alternative -
certainly better than paint...just use in a well-ventilated area - and don't
ask me how I know this.
Michael Ferguson
1959 TR3A TS53990L...O
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>From: Barry Schwartz <bschwart@pacbell.net>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Cc: spitfires@autox.team.net
>Subject: Powder coating prep -
>Date: Tue, Oct 10, 2000, 11:18 AM
>
>
> To those of you that have powder coated parts (and you know who you are),
> as far as the surface prep goes, how "clean" does the surface actually have
> to be. I have just completed a new frame for the Perma Cool electric fan
> that will be installed on the new aluminum radiator assy, hopefully in time
> for Triumphest, and although it's completely de-greased and entirely bare
> metal, there is the characteristic blackened areas from brazing on the
> required brackets, that unless I sandblast (which is not as easy for me to
> do as it used to be) won't be removed entirely. I can sand most of it
> down, which I already have, but will the remaining blacked areas affect the
> adhesion? If so then I'll be forced to use conventional engine enamel :-(
> which will work fine, but won't be as durable -
>
> Barry Schwartz (San Diego) bschwart@pacbell.net
>
> 72 PI, V6 Spitfire (daily driver)
> 70 GT6+ (when I don't drive the Spit)
> 70 Spitfire (long term project)
>
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