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Re: "Tractor" motor Now Chem Stripper

To: Brad Eells <bradlnss@lightspeed.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: "Tractor" motor Now Chem Stripper
From: HAMILTON DOUG <douglasehamilton@home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 13:23:56 -0700
Organization: @Home Network Member
References: <NEBBJPFDFKDLFGGIHFHKAEJPCEAA.bradlnss@lightspeed.net>
Brad,
I had the same questions from Scott Roberts below is my reply to him and
his to me. The process did remove what little rust there was in my
panels. The caustic that was used to strip the panels is similar to the
hot tank a machine shop uses to clean your engine block. In my case they
neutralized it by dipping it in a phosphoric acid bath that puts a zinc
phosphate coating on the panels which prevents flash rusting but if the
panels get wet they will rust. The panels have blue gray finish on them
like new steel from a metal shop. Except the acid bath was dirty where I
took my stuff.  Choose your shop carefully. I'll be plastic bead
blasting my body tub after this experience the bad part of this is any
rust and old bondo will have to be removed afterwards and I will have to
prime the tub right away. When I lived in another city there was a small
blasting company that would come to your location put a tent over your
car in your driveway and Soda-Blast your car. A friend had this done to
his split window Beetle I was very impressed with the results he got.
For those doing partial restorations the glass, rubber, and chrome don't
have to be removed the soda will clean but not damage them. It leaves a
much smoother finish that plastic beads or sand  any soda that remains
is washes away with water it's just baking soda like Arm and Hammer. But
I couldn't find anyone here who offers that process.

Doug Hamilton

Scott Roberts wrote:
>Thanks Doug-
>I am thinking about the Redi Strip in Allentown, Pa, and the rough estimate
>I got over the phone was about 900 to 950 for the three main body sections
>(bonnet, center, and rear) plus the two doors and the boot lid. I am
>planning to take those sections up in a few weeks (after my tax refund
>arrives) and get the exact, and, if I'm happy with it, I'll leave the parts
>to be done. If not, I guess I can spend a lot of time for zip-stripping. I
>just don't want to have to...

>Scott


----- Original Message -----
From: "HAMILTON DOUG" <douglasehamilton@home.com>
To: "Scott A. Roberts" <herald1200@home.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: Did TR give or get the "Tractor" motor ?


> Scott,
> The place I took my car to used to be a Redi-Strip franchise but they
> have gone down hill since then. Redi-Strip usually charges $2k-3k to do
> a complete car and their work is usually very good. The shop I used
> charged $650.00 for 4 fenders, 2 doors, hood, trunk lid, spare tire well
> lid, and front valence from my TR3. I was supposed to take my tub to
> them as well for another $1000.00 but the quality of work they did for
> me was very poor.  Their caustic solution that they use to strip the
> paint must have been weak for it to take 5 weeks, it usually 2-4 weeks
> depending on how much bondo is on the panels. When finished there was
> dirt embedded in the phosphate coating they applied to my panels. Get
> lots of references from the shop you use and maybe get them to do one
> smaller panel first to see the results of their work before paying the
> big bucks. The shop I used was the only place within 800 miles and he
> was supposed to be giving me a deal if I paid cash. It was easy for me
> to scrub the panels clean and redo the phosphate coating but I shouldn't
> of had to. The phosphate coating is created by dipping or brushing the
> metal with dilute phosphoric acid creating a zinc phosphate coating
> which stops flash rusting of the metal while you do your body work. It
> also improves paint adhesion.
> I'm not a red neck but it pisses me off when someone uses english as a
> second language to not understand your complaints but understands
> perfectly when taking your money. That said this is still the best way
> to do things just find a good shop to do it for you. I'm in Calgary
> Alberta Canada so you won't stumble into the same shop as I did.
>
> Good luck
> Doug Hamilton

Brad Eells wrote:
> 
> Doug,
> 
> I am curious about your experience with the dip tank stripper. Are you happy
> with the results? Does it remove rust? Is the chemical neutralized to
> prevent further corrosion?
> 
> Finally, what did it cost and what company did you use?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad
> 62 TR4 - "to dip or not to dip - that is the question"
> 
> Doug Hamilton
> 1960 TR3 fresh from the chemical stripper( 5 weeks in the tank )

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