So Last night I checked the rear stromberg first. (it is the one one with the
slow rising piston.) The diaphragm looked fine and everything seemed to move
smoothly. I cleaned it up and put it back together. AFterwards I checked the
piston travel . . it fell smoothly all the way to the bottom and gave the
required metalic click when it hit bottom.
So then I moved on to the front carb.
It also seemed fine with the exception that it was missing the little washer
that goes under the spring. (above the air valve piston)
I find it hard to believe that this ultra flimsy spring, much less the little
washer that it rests on, can noticeably affect how quickly a piston rises or
falls. None the less, I went and found another washer in a spare carb and
installed it. (found that the same washer was missing in first two spares that
I tried.)
Everything went back together and I started the car. Same result: rear carb
piston doesn't raise as much or as fast as the front when the throttle is
opened.
I shut the car off and decided to raise and drop the pistons and see if they
fall at a similar rate . . . before I got there though . . I noticed that I
could feel a most definite difference in the amount of force required to lift
the pistons. The rear is much harder. As if the oil in the rear carb was gear
oil. (it wasn't of course)
I unscrewed the dampners from the top and switched them, front carb to rear.
Same result.
Right about then my wife came and gave me a disapproving look for not eating
the food she had made for me. (rightly so)
That ended the night's investigation.
Anyone want to suggest what to check out next or guess what I'll find?
Should I measure damper piston diameter or bore diameter?
Is there some sort of vent hole that could be blocked?
Could I try using a much lighter (thinner) oil in the rear carb?
(not that it would be a permanent fix . . but more a diagnostic "what if"
test.)
I could always try swaping parts from some of the spare carbs I have around.
And another thing. . . when I went to move the TR-4 out of the way this morning
. . . (37degrees F here in No VA) it was llike the damned thing was running on
two cylinders! I could scarcely make it move.
Scott Tilton
Leesburg VA
--- ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 14-Jan-02 07:57:22 Eastern Standard Time,
> sdtilton@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
>
>
> Scott, first see if the diaphragms are not torn. If they are OK, then check
> the springs on the piston shafts. They should be the same. Check the
> needles to see if they are seated properly and have no burrs. Then be sure
> that the oil in the dampers is the same weight in both (I have always used
> 20W -but others on the list use other weights) and that the dampers are full.
>
>
>
> Also check the linkages between the carbs. Be sure the small bolts that
> close the spring like pieces on the shafts are tight. Let us know what you
> find, please.
>
> Art Kelly '64 TR4 CT33118L (original owner/factory pickup)
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