I suggest shut off the engine and with the air filters off, lift the pistons
and look in the carb throats to see if both the butterflys are fully closed.
Then manually turn the throttle to see if both the butterflys open the same
amount at the same time. If the "springy" thing connecting the two
butterflys is not adjusted properly, one butterfly may be fully closed and
the other partly open. This may be causing the problem.
Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Montrea, Canada
<ptegler@gouldfo.com> wrote
This may sound funny... but to perform a test to determine
> the 'source' or the problem first.
>
> Pull the carbs off the car. Use a vacuum cleaner to test
> how high/fast the piston rises
>
> I use a carboard tube with a hole in it and a second tube
> around which I can slide up the tube to close off the hole
> in the side of the tube to control how much vacuum the
> carb sees. This will allow you to determine the 'energy'
> required to lift the piston and to 'match' the pistons.
>
> Now... the reason to go through this? It's an easy way to see
> if it's the engine piston balance problem front/rear not
> pulling the same air, not pulling enough air, verify a vacuum
> leak on your intake manifolds or some other problem.
>
> BUT most important.....
> If using the vacuum cleaner, you can play with various 'ports'
> on the carb and not worry about gasoline or it's effects on
> the engine (rich/lean etc) You can test it with/without dashpots etc.
>
> Paul Tegler ptegler@gouldfo.com www.teglerizer.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Tilton" <sdtilton@yahoo.com>
> To: <ArthurK101@aol.com>
> Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 7:57 AM
> Subject: TR-4 Stromberg Piston update (long)
>
>
> So Last night I checked the rear stromberg first. (it is the one one with
the
> slow rising piston.) The diaphragm looked fine and everything seemed to
move
> smoothly. I cleaned it up and put it back together. AFterwards I checked
the
> piston travel . . it fell smoothly all the way to the bottom and gave the
> required metalic click when it hit bottom.
>
> So then I moved on to the front carb.
> It also seemed fine with the exception that it was missing the little
washer
> that goes under the spring. (above the air valve piston)
>
> I find it hard to believe that this ultra flimsy spring, much less the
little
> washer that it rests on, can noticeably affect how quickly a piston rises
or
> falls. None the less, I went and found another washer in a spare carb and
> installed it. (found that the same washer was missing in first two spares
that
> I tried.)
>
>
> Everything went back together and I started the car. Same result: rear
carb
> piston doesn't raise as much or as fast as the front when the throttle is
> opened.
>
> I shut the car off and decided to raise and drop the pistons and see if
they
> fall at a similar rate . . . before I got there though . . I noticed that
I
> could feel a most definite difference in the amount of force required to
lift
> the pistons. The rear is much harder. As if the oil in the rear carb was
gear
> oil. (it wasn't of course)
>
> I unscrewed the dampners from the top and switched them, front carb to
rear.
> Same result.
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