TEST ONLY
Randall wrote:
>
> Scott :
>
> The dead blow mallet probably won't hurt, but IMO won't help either.
> I've also had trouble with the edge of the block crumbling away, if I
> pried between the head and block too enthusiastically.
>
> One technique that seemed to work fairly well for me was to make up a
> plate with bolts that thread into the rocker cover stud holes, and then
> pry between the plate and the top of the cylinder studs. Soaking things
> in PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrating oil) may help too, as
> sometimes water gets into the area between the studs and head, causing
> all sorts of corrosion.
>
> Another that I've heard of is to pack #1 and #4 with rope through the
> spark plug holes, and then use the starter to turn the engine over. The
> rope is soft enough to not hurt anything. You may have to repeat this
> several times, turning the engine backwards by hand each time, and
> perhaps adding more rope as the head starts to come free. You can use
> the battery, cables and solenoid off of the car to power the starter,
> the only thing you need to add is a longer ground cable which can be
> obtained at the local parts house (or junk yard). May need to scrounge
> some shorter bolts too, since the bellhousing won't be there.
>
> You can also try removing the studs first, which makes it much easier to
> get the head off (but of course ruins the studs).
>
> Don't know about the engine stand, I've always pulled the head before I
> got to the stand. But, you might be able to rig a suitable catch (nylon
> straps or a wooden platform) and turn the engine upside down to get
> gravity to help. That head is durned heavy !
>
> Randall
>
> suhring wrote:
> >
> > I am having difficulty removing the head of the engine on the
> > '59 TR3 restoration. The engine is currently on a 3 leg stand,
> > have removed the rocker, push rods and bolts. I can't get the
> > seal to release.
> >
> > Will I be in trouble if I use a rubber dead blow mallet to "wack"
> > the head to get it to release? Should I take the engine off the
> > stand so as to get better leverage with the engine on the ground?
> > Since I plan to have the head and block cleaned and checked out at
> > a local shop, should I let them do the dirty work?
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