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Re: The Impossible Dream?

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: The Impossible Dream?
From: Michael Hargreave Mawson <OC@46thFoot.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 08:47:35 +0000
References: <O8HDb7oecz29EwOt@hargreave-mawson.demon.co.uk> <NOEDJDCNFBCNELMBFNFEOEIPDPAA.ryoung@navcomtech.com>
User-agent: Turnpike/6.02-U (<LxVf5jpHTJ4KxZf4nSFlqLdH9U>)
On Wed, 20 Nov 2002, at around 08:02:01 local time, Randall Young 
<ryoung@navcomtech.com> wrote:
>> >Phosphoric acid is the first choice for this, but hydrochloric works,too.
>> >Paint shops sell hydrochloric labeled as muriatic acid, used to etch
>> >masonry before painting. Phosphoric acid can be found as a paint prep. or
>> >sold under the trade name "Naval Jelly" here in the States.
>>
>> Thanks very much indeed.   Do these acids not react with the steel as
>> well?
>
>Phosphoric acid reacts very slowly with the base steel, it won't do any
>damage as long as it's removed in a reasonable length of time (a day or so).
>Hydrochloric attacks a bit faster, but still within reason.

That sounds fine.

>  In both cases
>you have to be very sure to get all the acid off.

I can understand that!
>
>> >
>> >There are some paints and coatings that complex and neutralize the rust,
>> >preventing the spread of it. Loctite sells a material called
>> "Extend" which
>> >is very effective. I think POR15 does this, too.
>>
>> Yes, I have come across these, and they are very useful for areas which
>> are out of sight; less so for external bodywork, as they tend to leave a
>> rough surface that has to be sanded or ground down.
>
>The reason for this is that the original surface is now rough.  Not much can
>be done about that, the original metal is no longer there and even if you
>could turn the rust back to metal, it would still be rough.

Of course - hence my request for a product that simply dissolves the 
rust away, rather than one that converts it to an inert compound.   If 
you have to sand away the rough blue-black stuff that results from the 
application of these sorts of treatments, you might just as well do the 
job properly in the first place, and sand away the rust back to bare 
metal.

>  But a
>high-build primer will usually smooth out all but the worst pits.

I shall have to investigate this.
>
>For smaller parts, you could also investigate
>http://users.interconnect.net/nlindsey/rusty2l/electrolysis/electrolysis.htm
>
>Haven't tried it myself, but I'm told it works by others who have.

Makes sense.

Thanks for all the info., Randall.

ATB

-- 
Mike
Ellie  - 1963 White Herald 1200 Convertible GA125624 CV
Connie - 1968 Conifer Herald 1200 Saloon GA237511 DL
Carly  - 1977 Inca Yellow Spitfire 1500 FM105671

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