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Re: welder dilemna

To: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul@negia.net>
Subject: Re: welder dilemna
From: George Richardson <gprtech@frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 20:35:22 -0400
Cc: triu autox <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <002e01c38ec1$3818fd60$9ca23745@sony>
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:1.4) Gecko/20030624 Netscape/7.1 (ax)
I'm not sure what you mean by "none other than the bracing".

Everything you've got to put in needs to be cut free and then the new 
parts welded in. That's quite a bit of welding, and you're only going to 
cut out one part at a time and weld in the new.

Paul Dorsey wrote:

>Hi,
>I'm getting ready to do a frame-off restoration of my '60 TR3A.  I have a nice
>solid car to work on with minimum rust.  Those peices requiring replacement
>include only the:
>battery box
>both inner and outer sills/rocker panels
>both left and right floorboards and
>both left and right outside footwells
>
>I have a good friend who is an expert mig welder who lacks equipment but says
>he'll help.  I've bought and looked at Roger Williams "How to restore a TR3".
>I've studied the pictures on bracing of the "door apertures" that he suggests,
>but now I wonder how much welding will be actually be required on my car?  If
>none other than the bracing, then it would be easier to take the stuff to a
>welding shop than have to rent the equipment from a welding rental center.
>What do people suggest?
>Have I not read my book enough?
>
>
>
>  
>

-- 
George Richardson
1957 Triumph TR3 - TS15559L http://www.key-men.com/triumph
1975 Triumph TR6 - Undergoing restoration    
1972 Triumph Stag - Daily Driver
Key Men: Keys for Classics - http://www.key-men.com




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