Alondine follows the acid etch; it is a "conversion coating" that in
reality corrodes the surface of the metal about 1/2 to 11/2 mils deep.
One can buy both the etch, which is high grade phosphoric acid, and the
alodine at any really good auto type paint store. Dupont makes an etch.
Etch the metal, instructions should be on the bottle, with a diluted
mix; keep greasy little finger prints off, then alodine. The final look
should be one of translucent "shimmery" gold. If it goes brown you have
smutted the surface, and will have no adhesion. Etch off and start
over. If the water/alodine mix is warm it will go off very fast, and
the more you have roughed the surface, the faster it will go off. DON"T
let it dry on the metal; keep running water handy.
I replaced the side panels of my T6 with new ones from surplus Canadian
Harvard Mk.4 inventory that had been hot alodined to mil spec.then
painted with nothing more than 60's era enamel. I thought I was going
to have to grind the paint off. Even using the very best mil spec
aircraft stripper on earth, it took me days.
If you cannot find the alodine, I have some in powder form that may
still have some potency.
I suspect your alloy is 6061 T6; 1/16 is about .062, and that is thick
stuff. The normal method of doing something like this is to get O
(either 6061-O or 2024-O)(dead soft), bend and then heat treat.
Good luck with your future in chemistry.
From: David Templeton [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 8:35 AM
Subject: RE: Microsoft Truck, the TR3a and other thoughts (longish)
> What is the alloy of your aluminum? Do you have access to an English
> Wheel. Heating won't help. On the portion to be adhered etch and
> alodine that after scuffing (just scuff) with a Scotchbrite pad (red)
[David Templeton] As for the alloy, unknown, it is off the shelf stock
Canadian Tire ( same stock seen at Home Depot ). What I can tell you
the thickness, 1/16" it is pretty stiff and required good force to bend
> Etching and aloding aluminum makes paint almost impossible to remove,
> and I expect it does the same for JB Weld. I also suspect there
> adhesives than JB Weld, but they will be more costly. I don't think
> will work well on flat surfaces. Try some of the really good epoxy
> adhesives. Do you have an R.S. Hughes (3M jobber) near you; they have
[David Templeton] excuse my ignorance, but "aloding", is that like "acid
washing" where you use a mild acid to clean the surface?
(looking forward to metallurgy 101 :-) )