Paul Dorsey wrote
> As you may know, I am putting new floorpans and sills in my TR3A. I am
trying
> to do it the right way and installing one panel at a time so as retain
maximum
> rigidity and reference points. As halfway expected, the new floorpan
didn't
> exactly line up the old inner seal supports. When it comes time to
install
> the new inner and outer sills, should I adjust the new sill slightly
> front-to-back so as to align the sill support with the floorpan? I guess
the
> alternative is to drill holes in the floorpan.
> Thanks,
> Paul Dorsey
> 60 TR3A
Paul:
Since you are building you car to fit your chassis you will need to adjust
the current panel, your floorpan, to fit the old sill holes which will also
be the chassis mounting holes. You should adjust your floor panels to fit
your chassis since that will be the final position for that panel. You will
find some adjustment by moving the panel back or forth before you tack it
into place. Since you are removing and replacing one panel at a time, your
posts should stay affixed to the old sill at this point, but check the "X
pattern" top to bottom measure of the posts as you go along to make sure you
stay square.
Before you get too carried away with modifying panels, check the new panel
back to the old panel by measuring critical points. I found that on one
side my new floor pan was off from the old one and on the other side the
sill was actually welded wrong and had to have the mounts removed and welded
higher to match the old sill and fit the new floorpan.
Remember to check the doors gaps before, during and after before any part is
welded into place. The posts are your checks and they can move without
knowing why. The A-post will drop when you remove the sill so know where it
should be before the sill is removed (or any footwell repairs).I also found
marking the old sill with a hacksaw at the posts allowed me to mark the new
one at the same point and it did ensure a smooth changeover.
Doug
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